I admit that I get a lot of compliments about my blog. Particularly the photography. (And thank you very much!) But I am well aware that while I work hard at making the photographs look pretty, I can’t take all the credit. If there is one thing makes anything I cook up immediately share-worthy it has got to be a hand-painted plate from Deruta.
I’ve been visiting Deruta regularly for the last 25 years or so. The small Umbrian town, just south of Perugia (and not far from our house in Todi) was the subject of my first book, Deruta: A Tradition of Italian Ceramics. So, as you’ve probably guessed, I’ve built up quite a collection plates, bowls, mugs and platters over the years. Recently I wrote about one of my favorite sources, Sberna, But last month I had the chance to revisit one of the oldest ceramic workshops in town, Ubaldo Grazia. The building itself dates to the turn of the last century. While production is way down these days, due to competition from Asia and the general economic situation, there are still entire rooms at Grazia dedicated to turning, glazing, firing and of course displaying. I wandered from room to room, past ceramics in almost every stage of completion: raw lumps of green hued clay, rosy fired vessels , just painted bowls and plates, and – finally – brilliantly glazed ware ready for sale.
Grazia is considered to be one of the best places in town in terms of quality, and the meticulous attention in the glazing room – with women painting designs using the finest of paint brushes – is amazing. Grazia also uses a second coating of glass like glaze which gives everything they produce an extra finish.
While I may end up buying everyday mugs and plates that I don’t mind chipping elsewhere, Grazia is where I go to for one-of-a-kind pieces. Urns, platters and apothecary jars fill the display shelves with designs dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries. While these unique pieces might not make their way into my blog very often (it’s kind of hard to serve pasta in an urn) they definitely have a place in my heart. (And just in case you were wondering? They also make some of the most stunning tableware in town as well.) 
Ubaldo Grazia
Via Tiberina 181
Deruta, PG Italy
Beautiful! We have a small collection and think the food tastes better on Deruta!
Elizabeth took me to Grazia Deruta over 20 years ago and I still love every piece purchased there. Since I live in Boston, I can’t get there as often as I would like, but we have a wonderful Italian ceramic shop in the Boston area that carries their pieces, : Bellezza Home & Garden…
Belezza is one of my favorite places to buy Deruta Ceramics in the States. Can’t wait to see you and Patty today in Florence!!!
I love love love Italian ceramics. Is it possible to buy de ruts in Rome or along the amalfi coast. I will be visiting there in October and would love to know where I can get a debuts.
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Your best bet for buying ceramics in Rome is the shop located on Piazza della Pietra: Ceramiche de Simone. The shop has hand painted majolica from all over Italy
Be sure to check out Le Sorrelle Binaglia. Their ceramics are amazing. They are on the main drag across from the little park.
Love Binaglia!!!
Hi Elizabeth and Ann
Can you share the address for Le Sorrelle Binaglia pls? I’ll be going to Rome from Australia in a week and i’d love to visit these ceramic shops. Thanks!
Jo
Hi Jo. I just googled them. Here is the web site: http://www.maiolichebinaglia.it/
Thanks Elizabeth!
I tried to google Le Sorelle Bingalia but kept getting a restaurant.
Cheers!
I have just heard that Grazia has closed its doors because the two families who own the business are not in agreement about its future. Can you comment on this? Thank you.
Sheila Tabakoff
I haven’t heard that. I know they are not doing so well, but the place is owned by only one family, so something is off on that story
Dreadful news! I am spoiled in having a huge collection of Grazia.. some specially made for us. And when I give it all to my children I want them to be able to find replacements when something happens!! Some I will just give away… a friend who lived at Valvitiano in Ponte Felciano took us on our first visit… a wonderful experience
Elizabeth i am reaching out because i need a little bit of information about ubaldo grazie plzz if u could contact me via email..…thank you
Hi, what is your question about Grazia?