Buying ceramics is hard, hard work. First you’ve got to drive there. Then there is the whole decision making process. And then lugging them all the way to the car.
Of course, I’m kidding. There’s few things I love better than going ceramic shopping in Deruta. But one thing I do always mess up on is timing. I always underestimate just how long I’m going to be spending making all those hard decisions. I think it’s going to be a half hour or so. And then, before I know it, it’s 1:30.
The other day Domenico actually came along with me to Deruta. I realized that he pretty much has never done this with me when he started asking which exit to get out on from the highway. If I’m driving, our car almost heads there on it’s own.
Domenico was along for the ride since this trip was slightly more manly than others. I wasn’t here to buy girly mugs or plates. We were here to buy architectural elements. And so the architect came along to take charge.
It’s been about 25 years since we restored our farmhouse, and some of the fixtures are starting to show their age. So we were in Deruta to look at new tiles for one of our showers.
After about an hour and a half of this, I looked at my watch and realized it was 1:30. Way to late to head to Assisi where I had thought we were going to have lunch. Instead, we ended up asking Michele, who was giving us tile advice, where he ate.
Although I’ve been heading to Deruta regularly for the last 25 years or so, I’d never been happy at any of the restaurants in town. A few touristy places in the old part of town, and the hotel along the more modern Via Tiberina seemed about it. Michele suggested we head across the street to Asso di Coppe “Good food and a good price.” was all he said about it. Since by this time it was almost 1:45, we were starving and restaurants would start closing soon, we sort of didn’t have any choice.
At first I thought it was kind of odd that I’d never heard of this place. But once we pulled up to park I realized why: it’s a truck stop. Literally. It’s located right on the E45 with entrances there as well as from the Via Tiberina in Deruta.
We had our pick of tables and so chose one with a view. Of the gas pumps and trucks. This, plus the large TV playing the midday news made Domenico very happy and the food hadn’t even arrived yet.
Soon enough the cheery waiter brought over menus, as well as toasty hot torta di testa stuffed with thick slices of hand cut prosciutto. A good start.
We looked at the menus, but then just followed the advice of the waiter, since that’s what everyone else seemed to be doing. And by everyone else I’m referring to the locals who evidently come here regularly: three policeman, two plumbers, a table full of bank employees, and a few other couples.
On the waiter’s advice Domenico got the gnocchi with ragu : a big heaping bowl of dumplings with a very old fashioned meaty sauce. Nothing fancy, but very good. Instead I went a bit more summery, ordering umbricelli ( a kind of Umbrian thick spaghetti) with chopped fresh tomatoes and mozzarella. Again, nothing special but very homey and good.
Since the portions were kind of huge, we shared a second : osso bucco. A bit wintery, but tender and obviously freshly made. Perfectly seasoned, and we were dipping our bread in the juices when we were done. All in all a very nonna tasting meal in the least nonna looking place I’d ever been to.
By the end of the meal we had joined in the general dining room conversation about the news (that horrible mafioso funeral was playing over and over) and felt we had discovered some kind of secret club. A club decorated circa 1968, complete with Padre Pio posters, bowls of fresh fruit and vintage marble floors.
Next time you are in Deruta, and completely wiped out from all that totally exhausting ceramic shopping, rest assured you can settle in for a good meal here. And then, refueled (you and your car), you can go right back to more shopping.
Asso di Coppe
Strada Statale E45, km 57.300
(there is also an entrance on the Via Tiberina, just up the road, North, from Sberna and Grazia, on the left)
+39.075.971.0205
For more information on dining in Umbria and Italy download my app, EAT ITALY. EAT ITALY is a free app, and contains guides to Milan, Rome, Florence , Venice , Umbria (and an ever expanding list of regions and cities) available as in-app purchases for both iPhone and iPad.
Deruta ceramics is wonderful but just as magnificent are ceramics from Gualdo Tadino. Check out Zenobi Ceramics next time you are in Gualdo:
http://www.ceramicazenobi.it/
Will do! Thanks!
I think this is my favorite story since I started subscribing to your website. L’Italia vera. Is that right? The real Italy? I can taste those gnocchi! And I treasure every piece of Italian pottery I own. Grazie, Elisabetta!
I love this.
Che nostalgia! I never knew how much I’d miss Italian truck stops till I moved back to the states.
BTW and FYI: Has any other reader had problems loading your blog? Both my IPhone and Laptop take forever to load after I click “read more”
Thanks! And yes, my site has been a bit wonky lately. Working on it.
Thanks for reply.
FYI; the site is loading is loading up quite nicely now.
For me this is a real and filled-with-nostalgia part of the Italy I love. I really do enjoy these places. Thank you for putting part of your life on the web for those who are not there with you.
I’m game for Gualdo!
Come up next week, and we’ll go.
We are planning another trip next Fall. I will definitely go here. We had a porchetta panino for lunch in Deruta but that’s because it was market day.
These posts are why I continue to eagerly look forward to your next post! Good Italian food is about preparation and fresh ingredients and why not at truck stops? I’ve found some of my happiest times sitting looking over the A1 in an Autogrill, enjoying what’s fresh that day on the menu. Who’d think to write about it in an Italian food blog—so glad you include the great innovative places in your Eat Italy series, but also the small local places as well. Grazie mille!
I collect Italian ceramics. I have some lovely pieces from Ascoli Piceno.
I’m from Ascoli, our majolica is ancient and some of the best in Italy!
You can’t go wrong eating where the locals eat. And if they’re Italian?? Well, they set the bar very high! Looks like you made a killing in several areas. 🙂
I love your posts, especially this one. Was the meal reasonable – it looks so delicious and home cooked, would love to know if it was inexpensive too. So jealous!
This is my dream restaurant!
Really enjoyed this post. Would love to know the conto for your lunch.
Thanks!
30 Euros for the two of us. So 15 a person, including coffee. A half liter of the house wine would have added another 5 Euros or so.
Margaritelli sent us there the last time we met with him. Your description is spot on.
Glad you know and love it. Did you hear, though, that Margheritelli passed away this past summer? So sad.
Yes. I actually learned of his death from you and posted a long reply of recollections. Very sad.
This is my favorite place to eat in Deruta. They’re real pros at comfort food, especially after an exhausting morning buying ceramics!
And as you well know, buying ceramics can be SO exhausting!
Elizabeth, because of the time difference your posts arrive in my inbox right before lunch here on the East Coast! This is cruel and unusual punishment!
Oh how I love places like this.
We went to Deruta and I fell in love with the beautiful ceramic top tables! Since we couldn’t afford to have one of those shipped back to the States I settled for an olive oil jar. It sits in my kitchen and I think of Italy every time I use it. It leaks but oh well, I leave it sit on its own little plate. LOL!
I have to say we were very disappointed in the town itself and were so happy that a 4-course dinner was awaiting us back at Locanda Casanuova, outside Figline Valdarno, in the heart of Tuscany! BUT if we get the munchies while pottery shopping at least now we know where to go!
Thanks!
~Marge
Last October my sister and I spent a day exploring Assisi and it wasn’t until we got back to the states that we realized how close we were to Deruta. We’ve been kicking ourselves ever since. This truck stop is just one more of many reasons to return – love the idea of eating among the locals. Thanks so much Elizabeth!
Oh no! So sad: so close and you didn’t make it.
just brings back nice memories of eating there! the one now middle age waiter, Giovanni, married a Piedicollese girl, where we had our first tiny home. Giovanni’s mom is the cook! I actually can remember quite clearly her besciamella lasagna! o yum and sigh. If you go there again, tell Giovanni hello!
I will for sure, next time I go.
Hi Elizabeth, I was very excited to come across your website info. My family is from Sicily and I still have a lot of relatives there. My daughter and I were lucky to be able to go on a business trip with my husband and some coworkers to Rome and we all stayed at a beautiful home in Umbria, I can’t believe it’s been 4 years ago. My daughter has very fond memories of that trip. Especially when we all went to Deruta and visited the Ubaldo Grazia store. I could go on and on but I have one particular question, we found a little restaurant in town and had a great meal. Mine was a wonderful soup that I have been going crazy trying to replicate. I can’t find anything that is close to it and when I asked the waitress it was like I insulted her. I would love to make it at home, it was a cannelini base and had mushrooms. I can’t have dairy but this was so creamy without milk. Is there any way you could help me find this recipe, I’m sure it is very easy to make but those are usually the best ones. Thank you (sorry for the length of the note)
I don’t have the specific recipe that you had,but here is one of my recipes, which is a bean and mushroom soup. You can play around with it, substituting other kinds of beans and mushrooms. http://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2011/10/trumpets-of-death-mushroom-bean-soup/