We’ve all heard and read the stories in Italy. Another wall falls down in Pompeii. A piece of a statue breaks off a statue in a piazza. A chunk of a Roman amphitheater comes crashing to the ground. The gut reaction, to any and all of these tragic events is usually “Why don’t they take care of this? Why don’t they restore it? Why don’t they keep it safe?”
The problem is, of course, who is ‘they?” There are some monuments and artworks – the Colosseum, Pompeii, David – which are obviously the responsibility of the government. But the majority of Italy’s vast cultural patrimony remains in private hands. For better or worse, the responsibility for maintaining much of what makes Italy Italy is in the hands of people like you and me. They are us. We are they.
All this was brought home to me yesterday, when had the great pleasure to enter into a half dozen of the most magnificent private residences in central Italy. The thread that ties these buildings together is that they were built or commissioned by one of the most powerful families that ruled this part of the world: The Farnese. The illustrious family tree includes Cardinals and Popes, Courtiers and Courtesans. And a great many of them constructed palaces, villas, fortress and gardens that still stand today as testaments to some of the greatest architects and artists of the Renaissance.
It’s easy to feel a bit envious when looking at these magnificent structures from the outside. Battlements and balconies hint at a private world full of dinners served by liveried waiters and tea poured out of silver pots. The reality, though, can often be that the owners are facing the same types of problems we all do. And not just how to clean out that rain gutter, but how to track down and replace the broken hand made 16th century roof tiles that blew off in last night’s storm. It’s a constant struggle, and one that not only involves finding the funds to pay for all this, but a state bureaucracy that is often mind boggling in its complication. Because even though the government can’t lend a helping hand for the upkeep of these historic structures, they certainly want a say in anything that involves structural or aesthetic change.
Having written about buildings in Italy for the last twenty years and the fact that I’m married to an Italian architect, and having restored our own humble crumble of a building, I’m acutely aware of both the privilege and joy, as well as the challenges and responsibility that goes into living in a historic monument. Which is why I was so excited to hear the stories behind these private Farnese homes yesterday and get a chance to see behind their thick and august walls.
My friend Nicolee and I spent the day with Stefano Alluffi Pentini who not only happens to be the proud owner of one of these Farnese abodes, he is also the mastermind behind this coming weekend’s event Le Giornate Farnesiane. Stefano’s idea in organizing this event was to show exactly how important the role of private patronage is in maintaining Italy’s cultural patrimony. Over the weekend he, and five other families will open their stupendous homes to the public. The buildings are scattered in the area north of Rome, known as Tuscia, tucked in between Viterbo, Lago di Bolsena and the sea.
In addition to the six private homes, there are also several public buildings in the area, including the breathtaking Palazzo Farnese at Caprarola. The event will take place on Saturday and Sunday, October 24 and 25, 2015, and is completely free. In addition there is a series of concerts that will be held, featuring period music commissioned by the Farnese.
Besides being the perfect excuse to get out of the city, I’m hoping that visiting these places will help answer that question. You know, the “Why isn’t someone taking care of this stuff?” Now you know. They are.
Giornate Farnesiane
24-25 October, 2015
Visits to Private Homes:
Saturday and Sunday from 9am -1pm and 3pm-6pm
Bolsena – Palazzo del Drago (visits only via email reservation to [email protected])
Carbognano – Castello di Giulia Farnese
Capodimonte – Giardino della Rocca Farnese
Ischia di Castro – Palazzo Farnese
Vasanello – Castello Orsini di Vasanello
Vignanello – Castello Ruspoli
Public Farnese Buildings that can also be visited:
Caprarola – Palazzo Farnese (Sat and Sun from 8:30am to 7:30 pm)
Gradoli – Palazzo Farnese – Museo del Costume Farnesiano (Sat 10-1; 2:30-5; Sun 10-1)
Valentano – Museo della Preistoria della Tuscia e della Rocca Farnese (Sat 10-1;2:30-5; Sun 10-1)
Concerts:
Harpsichord concerts by Maestro Luca Purchiaroni with Farnese music:
6:30pm Saturday, Castello Ruspoli, Vignanello
12:30 Sunday, Palazzo Farnese di Ischia di Castro
4pm Sunday, Castello di Vasanello
For more information about historic homes in Italy visit the website of Associazione Dimore Storiche Italiane. And the full program of the Giornate Farnesiane is here.
And if you do go, I’d love to see your photos on Instagram! #giornatefarnesiane
Struggling to upkeep an 18-year old house so my heart breaks for people wanting to preserve such antiquities but the time/money/labor/ability to find artisans who can replicate replacement parts…oy…
Speechless.
You should go try to see some of these
This looks just FABULOUS!!!!! I so wish I could experience this….. I have friends in Viterbo….
Oh, so wish I could beam myself there for next weekend’s open palazzo, giardino & castello day!
Hope there will be another “Le Giornate Farnesiane” next year, hopefully lining up with our next Italian road trip itinerary …
They are hoping to make it even bigger next year, and include properties in Rome too.
Left Rome on Thursday and now I could kick myself for missing this once in a life time chance to see these treasures. Anyhow lucky, lucky those that get to see these magnificent places and a thousand thanks to those who endure the enormous headache and expense of maintaing them for posterity. What a weekend it will be!
What a great visit this would all make.
Alas, we aren’t back in Italia (in Rome) until Christmas…..
Boo hoo!
A fabulous piece, Elizabeth. Thank you so much.
Thank you, Elizabeth! I will be sure to check the ADSI website and plan to be In Rome next year when, hopefully, the next Giornate Farnesiane is held. Now I’m going to look at your fabulous photos one more time…
June
Here I sit in my office in downtown Los Angeles having my English tea and apricot tarte tatin and day dreaming about those Farnese abodes and all the beautiful photos that our dear Elizabeth will be posting of her upcoming fabuloso weekend viewing Le Giornate Farnesiane! Can’t wait to see them!
Lovely photos. I wish I was in Rome so I could tour these incredible buildings.
Thanks, Elizabeth, for posting about this. We live near Orvieto and would not have known about it otherwise (one of the frustrations of living in Italy).
We went to Palazzo di Drago in Bolsena and then rushed to the Palazzo Farnese in Ischia di Castro in time for the harpsichord concert. The Palazzo di Drago was wonderful–marvelous frescos and mediocre but interesting paintings everywhere. You really got a sense of how they lived then–and what it’s like to live in such a house now.
The Palazzo Farnese in Castro was pretty bare–I gather it is recently purchased and the new owner plans to renovate–he has a lot of work to do. That visit would have been disappointing except for the lovely concert, and discovering a terrific trattoria in town, Da Gioggiotto. Wonderful traditional food, lovingly prepared, a warm welcome and bargain prices. What could be better!
I’m so glad you made it to both places. I”ve never actually been to Palazzo di Drago, but hope to make it here. Yes, in fact, the Palazzo Farnese in Ischia di Castro was recently bought. And yes, the owner (who, by the way, was the person behind the Giornate Farnesiane_) is in the process of restructuring. But the views from the porch and the architecture itself is pretty amazing even without furniture.
I would love to be able to visit next year for this event – please let me know when it is planned.
Regrds,
Carolyn
I’m not sure they’ve set a date yet. They are trying to get funding.
I’m sure all of your readers, who get the opportunity to travel to Italy, would love!!! to be informed of any of these wonderful private residences we could visit. Is there a book, list, or website somewhere that indicates some of the villas that are open to the public – during the year, once a year, or once in a lifetime?
We got a chance to visit some of the Palladian villas outside of Vicenza a few years ago & it was truly special.
thanks so much
There’s no one guide, unfortunately. But the website for FAI is a good start.