Last week I had the supreme good fortune to be invited for a private visit to Palazzo Nunez Torlonia in Rome. For much of my career, I actually spent most of my time visiting private palaces, castles and villas. The results of these visits filled up my six books and hundreds of magazine and newspaper articles. But lately, as you know, my focus has shifted from architecture and interior design to pretty much food 24/7.
Last week I happily shifted back into palazzo mode. I tagged along with a group of Fellows from the American Academy of Rome (where I am Chair of the Friends of the Academy.) The extremely generous invitation came from Donna Olimpia Torlonia Weiller, the current owner of this historic palace.
Located just a block away from the Spanish Steps, the palace was built in the 17th century for the Marquis Francisco Nunez-Sanchez. It then passed through the hands of Lucien Bonaparte and finally was bought by Prince Marino Torlonia in 1842.
Most of the original palace still belongs to the Torlonia family. Sadly, an entire wing was destroyed in a fire in 1991, but happily much survives and the rest has been expertly restored.
We had free run of the piano nobile, which is about as palatial as things can get.
After our tour, Donna Olimpia hosted us for a very elegant lunch, set on the balcony overlooking the courtyard. Shaded by a century-old rose that twined its way from the ground floor, we sat down to meal of all sorts of yummy, old school things that you rarely see these days. My favorite was the extremely decadent insalata russa, a mixture of steamed vegetables bound together by eggy mayonaisse.
And please, tell me you love the ceramic bird centerpieces as much as I did.
Best centerpieces ever!
What a beautiful post! The photos are stunning. I am so happy I have found your site.
Thank you for brightening a very rainy day here in Hamilton Ontario Canada.
Can,t wait for your next post
Dear Elizabeth,
Thank you for sharing your visit to this magnificent palazzo. Is it ever open to the public? I ask because I’m planning a trip to Rome in October of this year.
I agree, the ceramic birds are lovable. They exhibit great character.
June
I think it may be open to the public sometimes. I’ll try to find out and post here.
Dear Elizabeth,
I have been reading your posts for over 2 years now and it is the first time I feel the urge to comment.
The palazzo is amazing but those birds captured by heart.
I work at home , basically glued to the internet.
Thanks for such a great post. They give me much needed respite from routine.
Maria Tereza
So happy to hear that!!! I always imagine people taking breaks from their normal day work to slip into Rome for a few minutes. Glad to know it’s a reality.
All looks wonderful. Will you be posting more details about the lunch menu? Is that a white cheese in the photo?
That is actually the insalata russa, which is a mix of vegetables and mayonaise. The menu was very old fashioned, with things like vitello tonnato, etc. Delicious, but not the sort of things I usually make at home. But gladly eat when they are served to me. Especially by waiters in livery.
Breathtaking setting for lunch….what a privilige!
Jaw-droppingly beautiful!
Dear Elizabeth,
I’m green with envy that you were able to gain entry into this gorgeous palazzo and were treated to a lovely lunch. I too love the ceramic centerpieces. My partner and I were in Roma last week and actually thought about trying to contact you, but decided to respect your privacy. (But we really wanted to.)
🙂
Next time!!!
Wow! How spectacular! And LOVE the birds!
Gorgeous photos.
The wall coverings are incredible. I wish I could see this palazzo in person. So inspiring.
Simply stunning-thank you for sharing your great photos. It makes me want to go and buy all of your books!
It’s as easy as logging on to Amazon!
Elizabeth, do you know where one could buy these wonderful ceramic centerpieces?
Thanks.
Maria Tereza
No, but I’ll try to find out! I did a bit of online research before I posted this, with no luck. But I’ll try harder to find out. Warning: I think you may need the palazzo background to make the whole look work.
Thanks for trying.
The centerpieces are meant for a friend of mine who does not have a palazzo ; instead a huge apartment filled with art , including wonderful ceramics from all over the world. He loves entertaining, his table settings are amazing. I sent him your post and he was smitten by the birds.
Very best/Maria Tereza