l’osteria di monteverde {rome}

I’m always a bit behind on new restaurant openings in Rome. Other colleagues in Rome – Tavole Romane & Scattidigusto & Puntarella Rosso for example – always seem to make it to what’s new and exciting ages before I do. I’m actually very lucky in that respect, because once the buzz worthy places have been vetted by people I trust, then I have no excuse not to go.

And so it goes with L’Osteria di Monteverde. As with all things Monteverde, my friend Ruth had also been there long before I. Several times over. So I had no excuse.

The other day I finally made it up the hill to Monteverde, (which does seem to be the new food hub these days) with Emma for lunch.

L’Osteria Monteverde is part of a new trend in Roman restaurants that I’ve already written about (see my write up of Cesare al Casaletto). Young talented chef and partner decide to take over simple trattoria in neighborhood outside of the (expensive) historic center. Rather than spend time fixing it up into something fancy or new, they focus on the food.

So from the outside you really wouldn’t look twice at l’Osteria Monteverde. If indeed you would ever even find yourself walking down this completely residential street in an outlying quartiere.

And inside? Cozy and comfortable, unpretentious and light filled. As Emma and I sat down, a few other tables were filled with obvious regulars. A couple of older men wandered in, sat down, and barely had to open their mouths before what seemed to be their ‘usual’ was placed before them.

Emma and I? We looked at the daily menu, written in chalk, and had a hard time deciding what to order. It all sounded that good. If the ambiance was Roman trattoria 101, the menu was anything but. No amatriciana/carbonara/arrabiata here.

Because Sophie isn’t my only  daughter  fixated on raw seafood, Emma went straight for the crudo di gambero rosso. Me, being the offal girl that I am, decided for sweetbreads to start.

The bright red shrimp were all they should be: fresh, fresh and very fresh. A drizzle of fruity olive oil and a squeeze of lemon and Emma was in heaven.

The sweetbreads (which are actually very hard to find in Rome restaurants outside of Testaccio) were lightly glazed with balsamic vinegar, which was tamed by a bright yellow eggy ‘carbonara’ sauce. Zucchini romanesche were used both in the firm-to-the-bite topping, as well as the silky smooth puree. Kind of sophisticated, perfectly executed and totally delicious.

Emma was actually starving (what 19 year old isn’t?) , and so wanted something substantial for her main course. Gnocchi with sausage and truffles came next. The gnocchi were light and slightly sweet, with bits of crunchy sausage sprinkled on top. Strips of green turned out to be wild parsnip – pastinaca – which reminded me of sorrel.

Since it was getting dangerously close to the end of fave season, I ordered pasta with pecorino and fresh fave. The fave had been double shelled (nice touch) and just barely cooked. The paccheri were perfectly al dente, and smothered in sharp pecorino.

Although neither of us thought we could manage dessert the waiter insisted we order the tiramisu. He really really insisted. I didn’t understand why until it came.

Ok, is this the cutest presentation of tiramisu ever? We popped open the jar and it turned out to be even better tasting than it looked. Lots of eggy marscapone layered with home made, coffee-soaked biscuits. The entire thing had been assembled about two seconds before it made its way to our table, since the cookies were still warm from the freshly brewed espresso.

My one regret? That I didn’t come here earlier. Don’t make the same mistake I made and wait too long before heading here. I can’t believe I lost an entire year.











L’Osteria Monteverde
Via Pietro Cartoni  163
06 53273887 – closed monday at lunch