Even though I really enjoyed wandering around Bevagna, looking into all the meticulously recreated artisan workshops, there was one thing I kept thinking as I saw the ancient ways to make paper and candles.
Why can’t I buy any of this stuff?
I mean really. Would a gift shop at the Museum really be that hard? A half dozen beeswax candles? A boxed set of note cards? Nothing? Come on Bevagna. If you can get locals to volunteer their time to oversee these fabulous workshops, then you’d think someone would figure out that the hand made candles and paper might be a good source of income.
Luckily my shopping desire did not go unrequited. There is a fabulous shop on the main street in town that sells wonderfully rustic hand made ceramics, as well as ‘guess what this is for’ baskets.
While the ceramics’ uses are easily identifiable (pitcher, plate, bowls) many of the baskets are complete mysteries.
The owner of the shop and I played ‘guess the use’ for a half dozen of the quirky woven masterpieces. Some of the answers to the “What’s this?” question turned out to be:
- for picking fruit
- for keeping food cool while hanging on the edge of a well
- for holding a toddler
I kid you not. A rather large round basket turned out to be a sort of rustic playpen. Or pig pen. Take your pick.
I stocked up big time. A couple of hand made brooms. A thingy for picking fruit (those figs are ripening as I write) and a half dozen small dishes that will surely make there way into someone’s Christmas stocking. And if any of you need a playpen/pigpen, the owner comes down to Rome regularly. So place your order now. 
Giuseppe Strappini
Corso Matteotti 105, Bevagna
330.566.818
0742.36.1578
There are actually two stores here, one an antique store, and the other full of ceramics and baskets. And don’t even think about sitting on the chair outside the store. It belongs to his uncle!!!
I always found that shop to be manned by one of the crankiest people in Umbria–hopefully he’ll cheer up after your notice!
I love those shops there. Very traditional and excellent quality and the items are so unusual and unique! I have one of the hanging baskets I keep eggs in and another I keep bread in (when not on a low carb diet!). I also bought a beautiful jug from the ceramics place. I wish I would have remembered to have you get me another one. I just it for olive oil and someone broke it when staying at my house. Also bought the little jug on the right with the terracotta glaze and the funny spout. It makes a lovely water or wine jug!
We were in Bevagna in June a few days before we actually met up with you, Elizabeth. I remember that chair very well, I got a kick out of it when I saw it!! Thanks so much for this article.
I don’t know that I’ve encountered a ruder person in my travels through Italy than the owner of that ceramics & antiques store. We tried to get by with our broken Italian and be respectful but his contempt for us was palpable. A shame, as he does seem to stock some interesting stuff.
He’s an old local man just living his life.