I’m a big fan of tradition when it comes to eating out in Rome. I much prefer the old style trattoria over the fancy and creative any day. And Armando al Pantheon is about as old school as you can get in Rome.
Located in the shadow of the Pantheon, this family-run trattoria has been going strong since 1961. Focusing primarily on traditional Roman standards, the small dining room has been a favorite with Romans – and tourists – since the day it opened. As the area around the Pantheon has changed much over the last twenty years – becoming ever more touristy- it’s a comfort to know that Armando is still serving up plates of pajata, amatriciana and saltimboca.
But there has been one big change recently. The family decided to update the dining room, doing away with the much loved, but perhaps tired, cork board covered walls. They also opened up the kitchen area, installed new warmer lighting, and took down the drop ceiling to reveal the original wooden beams.
Emma and I went a few weeks ago to check out the new interiors. Thankfully they’ve done everything with such a light touch, that if you didn’t know better, you’d think it had always been this way. (And I mean that in the positive sense, of course.)
Thankfully they’ve left the food as is. Although I have to say it seemed, if anything, even better than I had remembered it.
We started out with a special of the day, eggplant parmigiana. Actually, the waiter practically forced us to order it. He assured us we would be very happy. And we were. Light as a feather, the rounds of olive oil soaked eggplant were bathed in a slick of almost pure tomato concentrate, with the individual stack held together with barely whipped ricotta.
Of course we couldn’t resist the grilled lamb pajata. Thin cords of intestine were served heavily seasoned with salt and pepper and then grilled till toasty brown. Two thick slices of pane di lariano were also toasted and drizzled with olive oil to make the perfect accompaniment.
For our main course we shared a big plate of involtine and lentils, as well as cicoria and a big fat carciofo alla romana. All as simple as could be, and all approaching Roman perfection.
The only ‘modern’ touch to our meal was the tiramisu. Served in trendy glasses, the thick and eggey mascarpone was layered between coffee soaked cookies and thick slabs of nutella like chocolate. Delicious.
As we finished our dessert and lingered over coffee, I looked around the dining room. A pair of priests chatting over plates of steaming pasta, a quartet of what looked to be politicians probably scheming the next government’s downfall over stuffed zucchini, and various other tables of tourists and Romans, happy to find this timeless refuge in a city center where change is too often the norm. 
Armando al Pantheon
Salita del Crescenzi 31, Rome
+30.06.688.03034
Open for lunch and dinner
Closed Saturday dinner, and all day Sunday.
For more on eating in Rome download my app Eat Italy, available on iTunes and Android.
My husband and I were fortuate to dine twice in this wonderful restaurant when we were in Rome for our honeymoon 3 years ago. Service was excellent, food divine, perfect place. Thanks so much for the memory.
I had the mozarella and carciofi appetizer 3 times (!!) here in October. How does Claudio make that mouth wateringly tender artichoke?
And I love to watch Fabiana, who bubbles like a glass of Champagne, and Mario, who always looks so serious.
One of my favorite restaurants in Rome. Have not been since they remodeled but will go soon. Thanks Elizabeth!
I was here just a couple weeks ago and LOVED it! I had been before and although I thought it was good then (2009), this last visit it was even more delightful than I remember it. The renovation is wonderful, but it’s the food that has me wanting to go back ASAP! Plus they had an Abruzzo Pecorino white wine (!) on the menu I couldn’t refuse…it paired really well with the bacala, which we had because it was a Friday afterall! 😉
This sounds wonderful. And I love the floor!
What is the second dish? It looks interesting.
That is the pajata, which is baby lamb intenstines. It is delicious!
Elizabeth, this place is not on your app – is there a reason for that? :o)
I hadn’t been for quite a while, so didn’t want to write it up until I had been back. It will certainly be showing up in the next update, not to worry!
YUM……..my kind of food………not all the fancy plating where everyone has touched your food. I’ll be there next time I’m in Rome. Every photo made me drool.
Your sister from another mother
Seriously, how do they make those amazingly tender tasty carciofi?
I have heard so much about Armando al Pantheon and have tried it 3 times, hoping each time the waiter would be nicer, but no luck. Such a disappointment. I got the feeling if they know you they are nice, as I saw lots of kisses and hugs going round, but no friendliness our way. Oh well, food is good, but it is way more fun when you are greeted with a smile.
I love this place. Our last time in Rome my wife and I ate here two days in a row, something we never do.
Just came across your website as I was searching for Armando’s recipe for the artichokes. I was there this past Monday with my son and the food was great as all mentioned. Back in NY and wishing I was back in Rome. My guess from taste and viewing other recipes is they were trimmed of some outside leaves, stem peeled, cut off around 30% of leaves, choke pulled, steamed with garlic, white wine, lemon, and soaked in good olive oil with garlic. Any thoughts?
Actually, they aren’t steamed, but braised. Here’s my recipe: http://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2011/02/carciofi-alla-romana-cleaning-and-cooking-artichokes/
I neglected to respond to this post last spring…forgive me! Thank you so much for directing us to Armando where we had a fantastic lunch! There is absolutely no question that we will be going again the next time we are in Rome. My husband, Joe, will want to try the pajata for sure. He really enjoyed his pasta with chicken liver sauce and I liked my Pasta alla Griglia. We both loved the chicken with peppers that we shared, delicious and I have re-created it as best I can at home! Thanks again Elizabeth…the only thing missing was being able to share a meal and wine with you!
Glad to hear you had a great meal! I think you meant pasta alla gricia, right?
We’ve been to Rome twice and Armando both times. The food was fantastic and we haven’t found anywhere we’d rather eat in Rome.
We are going to Florence at Easter (2015) and wondered if there are any restaurants you would recommend in the same vein, ie delicious authentic food in an unfussy welcoming environment. We will be staying in the Oltrano district but it doesn’t need to be there of course.
Is Sostanza a possibility?
I’d welcome your suggestions.
I was going to suggest Sostanza. It’s one of my favorites. And of course all my others are on my app, Eat Italy.
Many thanks for this Elizabeth.