Porta Portese Flea Market in Rome

This post is from Sophie:

Sunday in Rome is one of my favorite days of the week. People really take it slow, and enjoy time with family and friends. There are a few ways I like to spend my Sundays in Rome, but my absolute favorite is a visit to the weekly  Porta Portese flea market.

However, it can be overwhelming (it’s huge!) so here are a few tips and tricks to make the most of your morning at Porta Portese:

Timing

The market is only open on Sundays, and only in the morning. It tends to get very crowded as the day goes on, so make sure to get there early in order to not be standing behind rivers of locals trying to make the best deal, but to still get a chance to get the best deals and see the other early risers shop their way through the market. I like to get there between 9/9:30am

Breakfast

I always start with breakfast before wandering off into the stands, and my favorite place is Pasticceria Cecere on Via Benedetto Musolino. They have delicious pastries and coffee, but I always end up getting their savory pizzette rosse (puff pastry with tomato sauce). They are right around the corner from the antiques section of the market which is my favorite (after breakfast head to the corner of Via Angelo Bargoni and Via Ergisto Bezzi)

Route

Porta Portese market is like a maze, so if you want to get lost, you should! It’s the best way. Just follow the locals and spend a few hours looking through the different sections of the market (antiques, clothes, kitchenware. etc).

However, if you feel more comfortable following a route and map, here is what I usually do:

• Start at the corner of Via Ergisto Bezzi and Via Angelo Bargoni.
• At the end of the road, turn right onto Largo Francesco Anzani and then left on Via Ippolito Nievo.
• At the end of Via Ippolito Nievo, turn right on Via Ettore Rolli until you get to the end of the road.
• Then turn back around (there are stalls on both sides of each road, so I like doing one side first, and the other on my way back)

Bargaining

This is completely up to you and there are no rules! This is the only place in Rome where it’s ok to bargain, but of course some people will be more open to it than others. Just be strong and confident, you can do it!

Lunch

Walking through Porta Portese can be exhausting, so you deserve a big Sunday lunch. Here are a few of my favorites which are not too far from the market

• Mercato di Campagna Amica (Via di San Teodoro) This is a farmer’s market, not really a restaurant. But they have a lovely outdoor area in the back where different farmers cook a special of the day. You will always be able to find a plate of pasta, sandwiches, grilled meats and vegetables, and sometimes even seafood (about a 15/20 min walk from Porta Portese)
• Piatto Romano (Via Giovanni Bodoni) One of my favorite resaturants in the Testaccio neighbourhood (only a 10 min walk from Porta Portese). This is the place to sit down and have a big Roman lunch with all the traditional dishes: Carbonara, Amatriciana, Cacio e Pepe..etc. I also love their seasonal vegetable dishes, they change all the time
• Osteria della Trippa (Via Goffredo Mameli) If you want to explore the Trastevere neighbourhood after a visit to Porta Portese, come to this small family owned trattoria on a quiet and shaded street. All their dishes are delicious, and they focus on Roman cuisine. After lunch here, go have a gelato at the nearby Otaleg

Practical Information

When: Every Sunday 7:00 – 14:00

Where: Piazza Porta Portese (but see Sophie’s personal plan of attack above)

What: There are over 1000 stands that stretch over 2 kilometers of streets.

Why: This market sells everything: from new clothing to old tires. In between there are stands specializing in kitchenware, vintage table top objects, old books and photographs, etc.

Who: Everyone. It’s a very popular – and crowded – market.

If you want to know more about life in Italy, buy Sophie’s book The Sweetness of Doing Nothing.

And if you’d like to join Sophie for a week in Italy you can. She leads tours in Puglia and you can find the full schedule here.