If the picture of the pavlova above leaves a bit to be desired I can only blame it on the vodka. Or champagne. Or wine. Or all of the above because it was taken at about 11:45 on New Year’s Eve. But so great was this dessert – and the rest of the dinner actually – that I really wanted to share it. Good photos or not.
It might be odd sharing a New Year’s Eve menu about a year before you need it. But really? This menu is a good stand in for any kind of fancy celebration. While it does have certain dishes that are traditionally prepared by Russians on New Year’s Eve I’m not going to tell anyone if you’re not.
As usual we celebrated the New Year at home. What was not so usual is that both daughters, Emma and Sophie, were with us. Emma’s friends came too, and since they are of Russian descent the entire Russian inspired menu just kind of happened.
One dish that is an absolute must for any Russian New Year’s celebration is Salat Olivier, or Russian Salad. Called Insalata Russa in Italian it’s basically various cooked vegetables held together with mayonnaise. There are also pickles and/or meat. Everyone has their own version and as I learned from my friend Eugenia only Hellmanns’ mayonnaise will do, as well as a very specific type of dill pickle you can only get at one store in Rome.
While getting my nails done the week before our dinner the Anna and Oksana (who are Ukrainian) insisted that if Eugenia was preparing and bringing Salat Olivier I had to make something called Shuba. This roughly translates as furry overcoat and is another mayonnaisey salad. But instead of meat there is herring (a plus in my book) and the entire thing is topped with bright red beets (I guess this is the over coat?). Since beets and herring are two of my favorite things, I thought this idea was brilliant.
I can’t tell you how proud I was to bring out this drop dead gorgeous platter as a surprise for our guests. I naturally figured that since they loved the Russian Salad thing this would be a sure winner. As it turns out none of them likes herring or beets. Go figure. I thought it was fantastic! Although I did discover it’s not the lightest of dishes and a little Shuba goes a long way. Which I guess is why it’s made once a year?
Emma’s friend Sasha (who is actually a Cordon bleu trained chef) made two savory pies (one cabbage and one lamb) which were gorgeous.
For dessert I decided to go a bit off of the Russian theme, but not too far. At least Pavlova has a Russian name. Evidently this meringue based dessert was named for the ballerina Anna Pavlova. I always thought it originated in Australia, but some people say New Zealand. In any case I make it all the time , but usually in the summer when it can be piled high with fresh berries. My winter version took it in a completely new direction. I had a huge jar full of chestnuts in syrup from the farmers market and so used them to turn the Pavlova into a type of Monte Bianco (minus the mille feuille crust which I never really liked anyway).
That last picture is for good luck. Literally. At the stroke of midnight all good Italians eat a spoonful of Lentils to bring prosperity for the new year. Also? We each got a lottery ticket and I won 2 Euros! So I guess the lentils do work! (although you can leave it off your menu if it’s not New Years!)
Here is the complete menu from that night:
Antipasti
Brown bread with Sour Cream and Salmon Roe
Sea Bass Tartare with orange zest
Endive with citrus and goat cheese
Main Course
Salat Olivier (there are tons of recipes out there)
Savory Tarts (Sasha used pre bought pastry dough and made one filled with cabbage and one with meat)
Dessert
Chestnut Pavolva (see below for recipe)
chestnut pavlova
Yield 6-8
I usually make this recipe with berries, but this version, which is almost like the Italian Monte Bianco, may be my new favorite.
Ingredients
- 4 egg whites
- pinch of salt
- 1 cup sugar
- 2 tsp cornstarch
- 2 tsp vanilla extract
- 1 tsp apple cider vinegar
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 2 cups chestnuts in syrup
- 1 tablespoon of rum
Instructions
Preheat oven to 180F/ 80C
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper of aluminum foil.
Put the egg whites in a bowl and beat on high speed with a hand mixer for about a minute, until stiff. Add the sugar, a bit at a time, with the mixer still on high. Beat until stiff shiny peaks form. This should only take a couple of minutes.
Add the cornstarch and vanilla and fold into egg whites.
Turn out the mixture onto the pan and spread into a rough 9 inch circle.
Bake for 1 and a half hours. Turn the oven off and let cook in the closed oven for 1 hour. The meringue should be crisp on the outside, but soft on the inside.
Whip the heavy cream. I like mine without sugar, but feel free to add some if you’d like.
Gently peel off the paper from the meringue, and gently place on a plate.
Place 1 1/2 cup of the chestnuts into a food processor along with 2 tablespoons of the syrup they were packed in and the rum. Blend until very smooth.
Assemble at the very last minute:
Right before serving pat down the center of the meringue to form a bit of a dent. Gently spread the chestnut puree on the top. It will be crumbly and difficult but don’t worry, you will cover it with the whipped cream
Spread the whipped cream on top, then gently scatter the remaining chestnuts on top. If they are whole, you might want to cut them into smaller pieces first.
It’s kind of a mess to serve. But a delicious mess.
For more menus and ideas for planning your own Italian party order my new book The Italian Table: Creating Festive Meals for Families and Friends.
Hi, Elizabeth, The pavlova sounds divine! Are the chestnuts in syrup the same as marrons glacés?
Mind yourself,
Anne
Not quite! The marron glace are candied then eaten fresh. The chestnuts in syrup are cooked in sugar syrup and then canned. They are a bit less costly than marron glace.
It is sad everybody calls it “russian salad”, because this kind of “Potato salad” is used allover Eastern Europe and nothing to do with Russia!!! If you want to call it, then FYI the real salad always have half majo and half sour cream! 😋 The base is potato, pickles, ham, egg. Some add onion, some apple. Also old school is also carrot and can-peas
Yes, I know, and every country and every kitchen has their own version and twist!