One of my favorite things to do in Florence is to stop by Santa Maria Novella. I’m not talking about the church (although that is very beautiful) but Officina Profuma Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, which is right around the corner.
This ancient pharmacy was founded by the monks of Sant Maria Novella and is not only the oldest pharmacy in Europe, it’s also one of the oldest continuous businesses of any kind. Founded in the 14th century by the Domenican monks, they were known for their rose water, which was used as disinfectant against plague. (well, at least it must have smelled nice?)
Today the pharmacy is run as a private business (they rent the space from the monks ) but continue to produce many of the original products that lead to their fame with kings, queens, popes and just about everyone who could afford their cures. And these old fashioned concoctions, which are still being produced, are the things I love to come here to buy. In fact my favorite product hits you as soon as you walk through the ancient wooden doors: their signature fragrance. They have been mixing buds, leaves and flower petals into a heavenly pot pourri for three centuries. It’s hard to describe, but it’s a mixture of spice and flowers and green and…..it’s the smell of Florence to me. And yes, it does smell almost medicinal, but that is also part of its charm, since I’m sure it cures something in my soul.
There are other things that I buy just for the chance to hold something old fashioned in my hands. Things like Lavender Salts and Aromatic Vinegar, both of which are cosmetics of some sort, even though I’m never quite sure what part of my body they go on. Then there are the tinctures like Acqua di Melissa said to aid sleep and Acqua di Santa Maria Novella. The later used to be called Acqua Isterica and was supposed to be especially calming for women. (too bad they had to change the name) (and yes, we got some for both Sophie and Emma).
Although the interiors are appropriately timeless and museum-like, on my most recent visit I discovered one change that I whole-heartedly endorse. They have now opened a lovely Tisaneria, a tea room, where you can not only try one of the many teas and herbal infusions, but also scrumptious cakes and cookies. Domenico and I, having just had a long and heavy lunch, opted instead for small glasses of their famous elixirs. I had Elisir di China and Domenico Elisir Stomatico. You know, to help us digest. It worked. I recommend you do the same.
Officina Profuma Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
Via della Scala 16, Florence
Open daily 9am-8pm.
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Hello Elizabeth, I love their pot pourri – 1st discovered it when I visited and now purchase it via a store in NYC.
Any hints for keeping the lovely scent around longer ? Mine seems to fade away fairly quickly – our tour guide in Florence told me to drizzle a few small drops of water into it every so often to bring it back to life – that seems to work for a day and then it fades again. I keep it in several small open dishes around the house – do you discard the old batch before adding fresh ?
Thanks for all your wonderful posts, videos and photos – always a highlight of my day !
Donna
Thank you for the kind words about my work!!! About the pot pourri: I somehow thought they sold an oil that you could refresh your pot pourri with. I just looked online, and couldn’t find it though. Maybe it was wishful thinking?
Seem to remember a similar establishment in Rome (perhaps near Piazza Navona) that sells things made by monks, but it’s been awhile. Do you know if it’s still there? Lovely post. Thanks for sharing.
There is an outpost of Santa Maria Novella near Piazza Navona, at Corso Rinascimento 47 and there is also a lovely store called Ai Monasteri, at Corso Rinascimento 72.
It is my favorite shop in Florence as well as their small out post in Rome near Piazza Navonna. I love their hand & foot creams & always keep some of their pot pouri and little fragrance cards in my home. When I smell it it always takes me back to Italy, if only in my mind.
Exactly, like a sensory trip every time you open your drawer!
I enjoyed reading this. We didn’t make it to this shop last year, but Lord willing we’ll get to Florence again sometime!
Aromatic vinegar sounds sort of like the smelling salts ladies used when they felt faint.
You are partly right. It is a smelling salt, but to keep plague and thieves away evidently: http://www.smnovella.it/catalogo.html?path=CTG-CTM003,CTG-CTM003-0,OBJ-PRD584
What great news. It has been a couple of years since I have been in Florence, but every trip has included a stop to refresh my pots of potpourri and pick up a few other treats. I hope to be going back next winter — a perfect time for the teas, if not for the garden.
Wish I would have know about this beautiful building while in Florence last November. Another great reason to go back to Florence. Looks fabulous!!
I should give my head a shake! We stayed across from SMN for a few days in ’10 and somehow or other missed out on going to this lovely place…your photos of the interior and goodies to be found there make me so annoyed that we did so! Duh…next time! And we were so close…I think I thought you had to make an appointment to visit???
No, no appointment needed. It’s very much open to the public almost all the time every day!
I have been buying their perfumed terra cotta pomegranates-lovely!!
LOVE the pomegranates!!!
I cannot live without their Melograno soap and scent, the absolute best.
Never miss the visit when in Florence!
A must for any trip to Florence. I would buy some of that potpourri just to remind me of the smell of the place itself. They also have tiny little rectangles of scented paper you can burn as incense–pretty sure I still have some of them tucked away somewhere. I’m definitely more of a Rome person, but I do miss Florence!
One of my favorite places in Firenze – we also have to make a stop in the Rome store if we aren’t going to Firenze. We were in Firenze last September and the tea room wasn’t open – something to look forward to for next time. I love the almond soap, the Weekend Soap for gifts, the potporri (of course – I just stir it occasionally and I find the the lovely scent lasts a long time) and the pet shampoo. My sister says that my dogs smell like Florentine Putti.
I forgot all about the pet shampoo!!!
Thank you so much for the tip about this beautiful store – I could have stayed there for hours but didn’t have long as it was my last morning in Florence. I bought several of the scented wax tablets for presents and one for myself which is now hanging in my wardrobe. Every time I walk into my bedroom in far flung Sydney it takes me back to that incredible place in Florence. The packaging was magnificent – I actually hated throwing it away! Hopefully I’ll return to Florence one day and be able to spend more time in this heavenly shop.
I always save the packaging too!