Whenever I go over to someone’s house for a meal I always learn something new. Often it’s a recipe, sometimes it’s a technique, and if I’m lucky it’s simply a new way of entertaining. Then there are the rare times that I hit all three at once.
I shouldn’t have been so surprised that this happened last week, at a lunch in a small town in the middle of Umbria. What made this rustic table so different was that it was the centerpiece of the home belonging to Nancy Silverton. Master baker, cookbook author, award winning chef and restaurant owner she’s been spending part of her summers in Umbria for quite a while.
My friend Rolando was visiting, and so we decided to pick up Salvatore and take a road trip to visit Nancy. As we all sipped cold white wine (thank you Michael) both Nancy and Salvatore started cooking. Salvatore quickly fried up some zucchini blossoms that he had picked for Nancy that morning in his orto, while Nancy put the finishing touches on our main course.
Nancy kept saying she was just making sandwiches. But of course, if anyone is going to make an extraordinary meal out of sandwiches it’s Nancy. First of all she explained that it had taken her years to find the perfect bread “Most Umbrian bread is kind of tasteless and the crust is way too hard.” But she had finally tracked down a loaf that had the perfect ratio of crumb to crisp – yet not laceratingly hard – crust. Slices of this got gently toasted in a panino press. Laid out on a hand carved, olive wood cutting board, Nancy began her magic.
Like an artist working from a prepared palette, she began to assemble one open-faced panino after another. Gently layering cured meats, cheeses and vegetables atop the toast, she had soon created a full painting of deliciousness. While seemingly effortless, as I looked closer I realized that not only planning, but much thought and preparation had gone into the seemingly last minute touches. Eggplant was seasoned and grilled, red peppers roasted and peeled, eggs hard boiled and sliced, ricotta whipped into a light mousse with freshly cut herbs. As she prepared each crostino, she would apply the final touches with an artists eye: a blindingly white flurry of grated ricotta salata, bright green margiorum leaves picked from a pot above the sink; deep purple chive blossoms from the plant growing outside the front door.
As we sat around the wooden table Nancy pulled out a big knife, expertly – and artfully – slicing each creation into four manageable slices.
Of course they were delicious, that was no surprise. But what was a revelation was the way the entire meal came together so gracefully and beautifully. Basically sandwiches, which I had never thought could be a centerpiece. But with a bit of ahead of time planning (and, oh, say 30+ years as one of American’s great bakers and cooks) I learned that can make a meal.
(And if you’re wondering about those grapes? They were dessert. They were roasted for about 5 minutes at high heat to become the most beautiful, delicious home made raisins ever. Thanks for that idea too Nancy!)
Even though I enjoyed these sandwiches in Umbria, they obviously translate to any location. But, if you do happen to be in Umbria and are looking for places to eat, you can download my app, Eat Umbria, available as an in-app purchase through the free EAT ITALY, available on iTunes.
Where did she get the bread? I have been looking for good bread here for ages!
I love when your posts make me literally lean in towards the screen to soak up every detail. This was a perfect example of that and is an idea that I will most certainly borrow. The artfulness involved makes all of the difference!
But totally doable, right? Let me know if you try it out.
You lucky, lucky gal having Nancy Silverton as a friend! Thanks for sharing your amazing panini with us.
A dream luncheon. Met Nancy at Mozza in Newport Beach, California where she had a book signing. How I wish I could join you. Our cousin lives in a castle in Migliano, Umbria and my husband and I lived in Rome for 5 years in the 70’s. We travel every year to Umbria. The best of all possible places in Italy. Planning another trip there as we speak. Can hardly wait. Thanks for sharing your day and lunch with Nancy.
What us your favorite place in Umbria? I would like to rent a house with my husband and friends. We love Italy so and this time want to plunk down short term roots and explore the countryside while being able to motor into Rome.
I don’t really have a favorite place in Umbria. It’s a pretty big region, and has many different kinds of landscape, etc. It’s best if you just find a great house to rent, then drive around exploring.
Wish. I. Had. Been. There!!!
marvelous photos
She’s got such a beautiful kitchen, and what a wonderful experience! Must make my way down to Umbria.
Whoa…Nancy Silverton cannot find good bread??? What happened to the genius behind La Brea Bakery?
Even with “not great bread”, her sandwiches look DELICIOUS.
Thanks for sharing Elizabeth. I have all of Nancy’s books, use them frequently. She is such an intuitive brilliant cook. My family have benefited enormously from her presence in on my cookbook shelves.
Wow. These look amazing.
What a great idea.
I’d like to try something like this once I move. Like you said, the key is the bread and prep.
I miss La Brea Bakery.
Wow! We just returned from Umbria, stayed near Montone. Checked your Eat Umbria, but not much in our area. We had a lovely lunch at ErbeLuna in Montone, though.
Nancy Silverton, wow! We couldn’t find any good bread in Umbria, unlike here at our home in Florence. Just loved your post, amazing! Many thanks!
Thanks so much for the recommendation of ErbeLuna, Montone is off my beaten track so I really appreciate it.
YUM! Although I must admit that I was surprised that Nancy would be buying bread, considering…but then….sometimes chef needs a break! Absolutely wonderful lunch, simple but YUM! Love, love, love sandwiches!
I want that kitchen. i know I could make those delicious sandwiches if I had such a nice place to work. First time I have ever seen a sandwich I would like to eat. I love Umbria. We stayed in a place called Titignano, which may be an agro turismo. The food was unbelievably good at that time and I would recommend it to anyone. If you have never been there, try to go. I enjoy your blog as I lived in Rome eons ago and can now go back through your writing. Lovely photos too.
Thanks! I love Titignano, and can even see it’s lights at night from across the valley from our own home.