One of my favorite places in Rome is the the ex-slaughterhouse, the Mattatoio. Located at the edge of the Testaccio neighborhood, this 19th century complex is a crumbling, magnificent urban archeological wonder. If it was in any other city it would have long since been restored and be the location of cool exhibition spaces, markets and restaurants. As it is now, it’s a half abandoned ruin that includes a semi illegal Armenian social club; an on-and-off-again modern museum (it’s currently off); stables for the city’s sorry horse and carriage owners and various other squatters with stray dogs. My favorite Farmer’s Market used to be here too, but they got evicted by the city of Rome. Go figure.
Luckily, at least part of complex at the edge of the former cattle pens has been restored and currently hosts an organic grocery store, a bar and a restaurant. And sporadically an outdoor market. For some reason this wide open expanse of space – which still boasts some of the original iron fencing- always seems to be sunny. I know it’s not true, but when ever I come here the vast area, with the hill of Testaccio in the background, just makes me feel happy.
After having changed ownership over the last few years, the restaurant is now, finally, good, which means I have an even better reason to stop by.  Stazione di Posta. a restaurant and cocktail bar is located amid the ex cattle stalls at the far end of the slaughterhouse. Cobblestoned floors and wide steel framed windows define the light filled industrial space. The kitchen, overseen by chef Marco Martini ( named one of Italy’s up and coming chefs at national competitions) pairs rigorously sourced local organic ingredients from a nearby farm with modern and creative cooking.
Sophie and I headed over during a sunny afternoon last February. All of the dishes featured seasonal produce, like the antipasto we shared: cabbage, guanciale and mushrooms tossed with a snowy mountain of shaved ricotta salata. Sophie of course ordered pasta, al dente paccheri with a pork ragu. My attempt at healthy eating was a rustic lentil soup with two fat ricotta dumplings wrapped in cavolo nero.
I’ve been back several times since, and love stopping by for cocktails. They have a huge selection of spirits and the price of one of their well made cocktails, 10 Euros, includes a tasting of organic cheeses and vegetables.
Stazione di Posto
Largo Dino Frisullo
06.574.548
Sunday: 12:30 to 15:00
Tuesday: 18:30-1:30
Wednesday – Saturday Lunch and Dinner (bar open till 1:30)
OMG With bushels of Tuscan kale in the garden, you have sent me on another recipe quest. Beans & Kale
I know, doesn’t that recipe look tempting? I haven’t tried it at home yet, but will as soon as our kale is ready. You must be far ahead of us.
Firstly, Elizabeth, let me commend you on the lentil soup choice! I would have been sneaking some of Sophie’s paccheri because I love it! I make a recipe from a Roman cookbook that has a pork sauce and is topped for service with fresh marjoram infused ricotta….yumm!!! Having not yet had the opportunity to get to Testaccio…well you can guess what’s coming! Thanks for this review, I love the look of the place, it’s right up our alley…keep these posts coming because I am assembling my “file” for our next visit!
Yes, keep this list because I won’t be adding this to my app for another couple of months for technical reasons.
That pasta!!!
I just discovered your work, and it warmed my heart to see you writing about Testaccio. My Nonno grew up there, and used to tell us incredible stories of growing up there during the war.
Glad to have stopped by – will be back!
🙂
Thank you for the recommandation! I was in Rome for only 48 hours and we had an amazing dinner. Great products, excellent cocktails and interesting neighbourhood!