enoteca provincia romana {rome}

Sometimes the best things hide in plain site. I can’t tell you how many times I walk through Piazza Venezia. Rome’s busiest square, with life-threatening traffic, is the hurdle I pass through anytime I want to get from my neighborhood, Monti, over to the area around Campo dei Fiori. More often than not I’ve got my earphones in and am listening to a podcast, while dodging errant motorini, cruise ship tourists, horse-drawn carriages and those whacky segway tours.

I never, ever think of stopping there to eat because it’s just not that kind of place. While other touristy areas like Piazza Navona and Trastevere are jam packed with restaurants whose waiters stand out side trying to flag down hungry tourists, Piazza Venezia is relatively free from this kind of activity.

Which is why I always forget about Enoteca Provincia Romana.

Located just opposite the Column of Trajan, its low key doorway and almost invisible signage means it blends into the surrounding ruins to such an extent I forget it’s there. Most of the time.

But last week, as Emma and I were heading back from a particularly frustrating episode at the questura involving trying to prove that Emma was in fact Emma (don’t ask) we were completely fed up and needing to be fed.

As we walked home I said to Emma “Let’s eat lunch here.” “Where?” she asked. “Right here!” I think she thought I crazy because really, the place is that hard to spot and she too had walked right by it millions of times without noticing it.

So why does Enoteca Provincia Romana occupy such primo real estate with one of the best views in the city? Because, in fact, it belongs to the city. Or rather the state of Lazio. Located in the ground floor of a public building the Enoteca promotes the wines and products of the Region of Lazio.

The space is sleek, modern and the plate glass windows have a breath-taking view of the Column of Trajan and the Forum beyond. The menu is full of options that take you on a tour of what’s best in Lazio. All the ingredients are listed, and are local, fresh and often organic.

Emma chose the Insalata di Pollo, or chicken salad. While chicken salad usually brings to mind a scoop of mayonnaisey gloop, this fresh salad was a bowl full of vibrant greens topped by a few slices of herb-roasted, farm-raised chicken. A few pieces of pecorino and chunks of crispy guanciale were topped by true balsamic and extra virgin olive oil from the Sabina.

I was drawn to what was described on the menu as steamed Mackerel and beans. I mean really, if you saw this on a menu, wouldn’t you order this too? If only out of curiosity? It turned out to be the idea of tuna and bean salad, but brought up to a level I’ve never had before. Fresh fillets of mackerel were steamed and briefly marinated before being placed atop a pile of firm borlotti beans which had been tossed with fresh white onions, celery and cherry tomatoes from Sicily. A big swirl of fruity olive oil and it was the perfect lunch.

We shared a portion of swiss chard which I’m mentioning because it was fabulous. Why? Besides being just good Swiss chard it was tossed with an insane amount of butter. Great idea, right? In an effort to be healthy, I usually just drizzle a bit of olive oil, which is what most Italian restaurants do. I’m not sure the butter was local, but whatever the source, it’s my new favorite say to enjoy bietola.

Since Emma can never pass up dessert we ordered their take on tiramisu. Served in a cute little glass cup, and topped with a couple of Gentilini biscuits, it had just enough coffee soaked ladyfingers at the bottom to counteract the rich mascarpone.

And so Emma and I continued our walk home. At least I think it was Emma. She still doesn’t have the correct document to prove it.

Enoteca Provincia Romana
Foro Traiano 82, Rome
+39.06.699.40273