So many people make the mistake of never heading out to Burano while they are in Venice. While I understand that there is a lot to do, see and eat in the main part of town, taking a trip out to one of the surrounding islands really gives you a completely different perspective on things. Think of it as a day out in the country. With water.
Burano is easy to reach, and once you’re there the brightly colored houses should keep you and your camera busy for a while. The island is known for lace making, but I have a feeling a lot of the stuff for sale is coming from China these days. There are a few cute little stores to visit, including a delicious bakery and a lovely bead store.
There are about a dozen places to eat, but my favorite is Gatto Nero. It was opened in 1965, when Ruggero Bovo took over one of the oldest osterias on the island and turned it into a more formal restaurant.
A few of the tables hug the canal outside, but the interiors are just as charming, with the walls covered in framed paintings and prints, the tables topped with starched white cloths and the food served on custom made plates.
But the food is what you go for, obviously. The seafood centric menu focuses on specialties of the lagoon. Capesante (Sea Scallops) barely grilled and served in their shell; tiny shrimp nestled in a bed of soft white polenta; cannolicchi (razor clams) and granseola (crab) drizzled with a bit of olive oil.
And this is the place to have risotto di gò. The broth, carefuly made from tiny little local fish, is extremely delicate, yet flavor packed. (To see how this risotto is made, here’s a video from Anthony Bourdain’s visit to another restaurant nearby.) If you still have room, the fritto misto di pesce is pitch perfect.
Do try to save room for desert. They serve one of the best tiramisu I’ve ever had. Classic, rich and dusted with bitter cacao. And of course the classic ‘esse’, ‘s’ shaped cookies that are dipped in a glass of sweet wine to end the meal.
Then, when you’re finished, take a walk outside, past the brightly colored buildings that make this island one of my favorite places in Italy.  
Trattoria al Gatto Nero
Fondamenta Giudecca 88, Burano
+39.041.730.120
For more information about eating in Venice download my app, EAT VENICE, available at iTunes.
It was closed the day I went to Burano. I was so disappointed.
I hope to make it back to Burano soon.
Hi Elizabeth, Thanks for the recommendation – I ‘m planning on a trip to Burano very soon and will definitely check out this place. Soon I will be leaving Rome (after 10 years!) for Treviso and can’t wait to make day trips on the weekends to the isole della laguna. Have you ever made it to Sant’Erasmo for the artichokes??
No, i’ve never been to Sant’Erasmo, but always wanted to!
One of my favorite restaurants in all of Venice! A return trip is a must when we are there in September. E, next time you get to Burano, walk over the bridge to Mazzorbo and check out Venissa. It’s a charming place!
Love Venissa! http://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2012/12/venissa-resaurant-hotel-in-venice/
Also one of my all time favorite restaurants. We first went in October of 2009, and again in the Fall of 2012. The owner, Massimo, was charming and delightful and helped navigate us through the menu. One should definitely work a “lagoon islands” day into a Venetian itinerary. Lots to see! Emilia is a lace shop on Burano where we peeked in on women doing lace work in the back of the store.
Oh my. This is one of your magical posts that makes me wonder, “What can I do to get myself there right now?” I haved loved your previous posts on Burano and will definitely putting this aside as well for…one day…
I LOVE this place. Stumbled across it one very foggy December about 10 years ago.Still rated as one of the top 10 meals of my life. The owners son is married to a Scottish lass and speaks English with a strong Scottish accent. You do feel like family when dining there, they make you feel so welcome.
The dessert wine they make themselves and is to die for. LIke you, I tell anyone who is going to Venice they MUST go to Burano. Thanks for rekindling the memories.
Amanda
Oh, we went to La Gatto nero too when we wre in Venice last November! It was fabulous! I agree that taking the boat to Burano is absolutely worth it. It was my absolute favorite part of our time there!
One of our favorite finds. A real treasure.
We had lunch there September 2013, pricey but outstanding food and service. Fine dining even for lunch. Loved the plates. Your food photos are similar to mine! 😉 The colorful houses are amazing. Very much worth the trip!
Now I want to go to Burano. Elizabeth I have a question. Looking at the picture of the tiramisu, I was wondering if you have a recipe. I have made it many times, but it never looks like the ones I have had in Italy.
My mixture never looks as yellow creamy. Do you have a recipe for this style of tiramisu? If so, could I get you to share it? Thanks so much!
I don’t have one written down off hand, but you’ve inspired me to write one up soon.
Our trip to Venice included a day on Sant Erasmo. We rented ancient bicycles from Il Lato Azzurro and toured the island. Sunday lunch was at a simple trattoria. The dining area was picnic tables next to the beach, and at least half of the other diners were local families who had brought their own food. Not the fanciest food we ate in Venice, but what an atmosphere.
I want to go to Sant’Erasmo so badly!
Hi! I know it’s an old post, but the razor clams are not canocchie, they are cannolicchi or maybe cappelonghe. I have never known if they are two different varieties or simply two different vernacular names.
Thanks for the catch! My Italian spell check must have changed it as I was typing long ago and I never saw it. All fixed now!
Gatto Nero was my best gastronomical experience in Italy in 2015. Everything was so perfect that day, that it seemed an almost dreamlike experience. The people at Gatto Nero love what they do , and this makes all the difference. Maximiliano, the son of Ruggero, was extremely nice, he even speaks a little beat of portuguese ( i am brazilian) . The risotto is really amazing and the tiramisu is the best i have had. I would suggest a table outside for dinner , the sunset is beautiful there. A few Mosquitos , yes, but the first thing they will bring you is a spray to keep the mosquitos away! I still intend to come back to Venice, only to have a dinner at Gatto Nero again…this is really a special place.
what a lovely story! Thanks so much for sharing, and hope you make it back soon.
We made it to al gato Nero last week and loved it. I had recalled you writing about it but it’s not on the eat Italy app so almost missed it. Just re read your post and am regretting missing out a desert! Most of our snacks and meals were your recommendations. I did wonder why some were omitted that were in the earlier app though? Including our B and B which is still good value. Have you ever been to the Venice jazz club in Dosodoro? Well worth a visit ( of course if you enjoy jazz) thanks for all the inside info, invaluable in Venice and Rome.
So glad you made it! And thank you for pointing out that Gatto Nero isn’t in the current version. It should be and is a technical glitch!! As is the B&B.