alle testiere {venice}

Alle Testiere is usually at the very top of almost every list of Venetian restaurants. And with good reason.

The extremely casual atmosphere (butcher paper covered wooden tables) and laid back service pair with inventive dishes that use local ingredients and extremely fresh fish to prepare ancient Venetian recipes with creative twists. The menu changes daily (and sometimes within the same day, depending on the catch).

Reservations are notoriously hard to get. They accept reservations online only, and have two seatings at 7pm and 9pm (I hate that!). On a recent trip to Venice I had nabbed a 9pm reservation but in the end had to cancel. (I admit it. I was just too tired to stay up that late). Rather than try to phone them (impossible), I decided to just stop by at 12:30,  when they opened, to let them know I wouldn’t be coming later that evening.

And was able to grab a table for lunch. Which seemed to be a much more relaxed affair than dinner.

I was with my friend Evan, and we started out with scallops broiled in the shell. But Testiere put their own spin on them, dressing them with black beans and a light sauce that followed the Mexican theme with cumin and coriander.

The gazpacho di moscardini grilliati was just that: a tepid gazpacho topped with perfectly grilled baby octopus. Evan can never pass up gnocchi, and so she ordered the gnocchetti di patate ai calamaretti al profumo di cannella. Again, they gave a classic their own twist, with just the right hint of unexpected – but perfectly delicious – cinnamon.

We both agreed our favorite dish was ravioli agli agrumi, ricotta e cape sante, light as air ravioli filled with citrus scented ricotta and topped with scallops.

Testiere is as known for its out of the ordinary wine list as their creative food. They have a pretty big list of small producers from all over Italy, many of them natural or biodynamic.

If you can manage to get a dinner reservation at this tiny place, congratulations. But, if you want a more relaxed affair, just stop by for lunch. It’s just as delicious. Plus, you don’t have to stay up past your bedtime.

Alle Testiere
Calle del Mondo Novo (just down the street from Campo Santa Maria Formosa)
+39.041 522 7220 

For more information on dining in Venice download my app EAT VENICE, available on iTunes and for Android.