I went to Sperlonga for the first time last weekend.
This is kind of a strange thing to admit, since I feel like I am just about the only person I know, in Rome, who has never been. In case you’ve never been either, Sperlonga is a gorgeous little village, perched on hill looking over the sea. But the real reason people go is that it is surrounded on both sides by long, sandy beaches with crystal clear water.
One of the reasons I’ve never been here is that for the last 20 years or so when we wanted to escape from Rome, we headed to our house in Umbria. That is the blessing and the curse of having a country house. True, you always have a beautiful place to go to. But it often turns out it is the only place you go to.
There is also the fact that Domenico hates anything that has to do with crowds, especially at the beach. So instead of taking quick breaks throughout the summer to places like Sperlonga, we would save up our energy (and euros) and travel to deserted beaches further afield.
And while Sperlonga is definitely on the crowded end of the spectrum, after a long weekend enjoying its charms, we were both cursing ourselves for not having ‘discovered’ it sooner.
First a word about Italian beaches. Most of them are organized into private clubs, or stabilimenti. These clubs stake out their territory and set up umbrellas and beach chairs in neat littles rows. So if you are looking for a deserted beach where it’s you and a few pine trees, this is not the place for you. Sperlonga is definitely beach club territory.
A lot of people rent out little apartments in the town itself. Since the weather had been nearing 100 degrees, we chose a hotel room right on the sea, as close to the water as possible. Our room came not only with a ceiling fan, but also extremely good air conditioning (not a given in a place like this) and included in the price of the room, our own extremely cute umbrella and lounge chairs.
Sperlonga is flanked by two long beaches. We stayed on the northern beach, which is narrower, and definitely more built up. And on the weekend was certainly ‘lively.’ The beach to the south is wider, but also just as full of clubs. But since there are not big buildings or hotels it definitely has a more wild feeling.
What did we do in Sperlonga? Relax. It’s a beach getaway, pure and simple. The water is amazingly clear and clean, so we spent a long time just soaking hot Rome out of our system. One evening we made the effort to walk up the steep steps into town, and had an gin & tonic while watching everyone do their passagiata. The village is very low key, and definitely not chic or refined. In other words, perfect.
On our last day we got up early and took a long walk down the southern beach to end up at the Museo Archeologico di Sperlonga. Beautifully designed, the museum houses the handful of amazing statuary that was found in the Grotto of Tiberius, which we also visited.
If there is a more magically beautiful place in Italy, please let me know.
Also, have you ever been to a museum you can walk on the beach with your feet in the waves to get to?
The food? Breakfast at the hotel was pretty great. And the best meals we had were the extremely simple lunches served at the hotel bar. Tomato bruschetta, spaghetti with mixed seafood and massive slices of the best watermelon ever.
And did I mention that from 5 to 7 a waiter comes to your umbrella to take cocktail orders? Yes. Aperol Spritz at your lounge chair as you watch the sun go down over the hills of Circeo and Ponza.
Even though we are now in Umbria, I’m already planning at least one September weekend back in Sperlonga. Because I have a lot of time to make up for. 
How To Sperlonga:
Getting there: There is a train that leaves hourly from Termini. The train ride to Fondi-Sperlonga takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Then you can take with a bus or a taxi for a 15 minute ride to town. If you drive, it takes about 2 hours since you are either on the Pontina or the Appia (in which case you can stop in Ariccia and get porchetta)
Staying: We stayed at the Hotel Aurora, which is definitely the nicest. The rooms were modern, clean and (as mentioned) had air conditioning. The breakfast is great, and includes fresh pastries, fruit and eggs. Next time I’m going to try for one of the rooms with a big terrace.
Eating: We had two bad meals (at Tramonto and All’Angolo), but one very good one at the Ristorante Scylla (via San Rocco 26). Amazingly fresh seafood, simply prepared. I’ve also heard the Ulysses, in the piazza by the sea, is good. If you go at the weekends, make sure to reserve. They were totally booked.
Museo Archeologico di Sperlonga: You can get to this from the main road, but much funner to take a long walk along the beach to get there. We wore our flip flops and just put a cover up over our swimsuits to take the long walk along the southern beach. At a certain point you turn left, and walk up a short dirt road to get there.
Your pictures are stunning.
Looking at your photos, I am reminded of how much I LOVE the Italian seaside.
Thank you for the glorious reminder.
Fantastic!
Always wanted to go when I lived in Rome but never made it! Maybe someday.
Beautiful!!
Happy to see that you included, in primo piano, the photograph of the Mozzarella di Bufala. Sperlonga is surrounded by low marshlands where the Bufala graze and where the cheese makers produce some outstanding Mozza. At least that’s how I remember it. Its been decades but I hope those beasts are still standing thigh high in the mud providing us all with one of the area’s delicious offerings.
We stopped at one of the stands on our way home and loaded up! The mozzarella is outstanding!!! And yes, we had it every day for lunch.
Elizabeth — I’m the person who so rudely introduced herself in the queue for the loo in Baccano a few months ago! Try Sperlonga v. early and v. late season — the stablimenti on the grotto di tiberius side are often barely set up then, if at all, so you get proper open beach — but Lido Rocco or the Delfini are still open for drinks and lunch. And the Hotel Corallo up in the old town is also lovely. Isobel
Thanks for all the good tips! Will definitely be using them on my next trip to Sperlonga. Which I hope is soon.
Not only did your photos astonish me, but your rhetoric gave way to bewilderment: “The village is very low key, and definitely not chic or refined. In other words, perfect.” I thought all I have always wanted was what is chic and refined. But now I realize that is not necessarily perfect!
CD
😉
GORGEOUS!
looks amazing I hope I get to see Italy in person one day! Thank you for the trip on your blog!
Rosemary
The best part of spending a seaside day in Italy is ending it with a plate of spaghetti ai frutti di mare!
It really is a magical place. I was there only once, sadly, and missed the museo. We were with two teenage girls who had zero interest in a boring museum…
Sounds and looks absolutely spectacular! One more place to put on the list…keep all these great destinations coming-I love reading about all of them!
Great photos. Of course, in the slightly lower season there’s a bit more charm to the town and you can find more peace and quiet on the beaches. We actually drive from our place in Terracina (centro storico) to a fantastic beach within view of Sperlonga. Walk long enough from the parking lot and its just sand and dunes and no one else around, even in July and August. But I’ve said too much already.
Oh common! Tell me where the magic beach is!!
Your photos are great! There are three resturants in old town that are really great and as well in front of the Aurora Hotel is tropical bar– great menu, great food and good prices. Try going to Sperlonga durning shoulder season or off season, it really is perfect! Deborah Ciccarelli Clementi
I came across your blog after a google search for Sperlonga and what a find! Not only did I love reading this post but I have also spent a blissful two weeks going through your archives…yum what fantastic recipes and lovely lifestyle you have.
I was particularly pleased to come across your Quince Crostata recipe and having made quince jam two weeks ago I dashed back to the nearby Walled Garden yesterday to grab a last bag of quinces to make it…they had only had two left, phew!
I’m looking forward to your posts dropping in my mailbox, trying out some of your recipes and hope to come on one of your workshops when I am in Rome next year, fingers crossed you are around when I visit.
My wife and I spent a long weekend in Sperlonga in October. I thought I must say Sperlonga takes on a new dimension out if season, We being of a average age travelled to Sperlonga for a long weekend and were pleasantly surprised by how quite the beaches were. we walked for miles without a soul about. The weather for us English was lovely. We stayed at B&B Sperlonga and were made welcome by a well run family concern. Will go again out of season,
I imagine it’s gorgeous out of season, and I dearly would like to get there to take long walks on what must be completely empty beaches.
Hello Elizabeth, thank you for sharing this special Italian destination. My husband and I have visited Positano and Amalfi, which in my opinion, are the most beautiful places on earth! And I’ve been to Monaco & Eze… that’s saying a lot! I love your photos which are very inviting. I’ve added Sperlonga to my “bucket list” Thank you!!
I love Eze! I spent a summer there, too many years ago to reveal, when I was about 15 years old. I have such dreamy memories of it.
I am amazed it was your first time…your fotos are splendid——– I spent two wonderful summers in Sperlonga in the 70’s….before we met in Umbria.
Best, R
Hello Elizabeth, read your review, sounds brilliant.
Just as well as we’re going there next month and actually staying in the Hotel Aurora too. It’s the second week of our holiday after doing Rome for three days and visiting the ancestral home of my wifes family, a small village in the hills somewhere called Picinisco.
Can’t wait and thanks again for the interesting article.
Cheers.
Roy.
Hope you have a great time. We are trying to figure out a stay there as well this summer.
I am looking for a day trip from Rome in early October and this looks perfect. I know it’s off-season, but would this still be a good time to go?
Thanks for the wonderful pictures and info.
My feeling is that these beach places are always better off season! Not everything will be open, of course, but you’re assured to have the beach to yourself. Long walks will be heavenly.
HI Elizabeth, I am booked into Aurora Hotel for 3 nights at the end of May and am now really excited, thank you for your information.
Regards Jim
Lucky you!!! I was just thinking I should book a weekend there too.
I went to Sperlonga in 1967 when it was just one simple hotel – the Amiclae – and the un-restored old town. It was wonderful, but looks like it has changed a huge amount. Think I’ll just keep my memories!
Everything changes….but Sperlonga is still pretty nice!
Stumbled across pictures whilst planning our family trip to Italy on Saturday. The place looks amazing. Planning on driving to Sperlonga from Rome (mid-week)as an escape for a day: family of 5. 3 boys 9,11,13. I thought about parking at Fondi-Sperlonga station then bus in. What would you advice? Also where would you suggest to set up. Thanks.
Since you’re driving, then I would suggest driving all the way there. And call ahead to make reservations at one of the beach clubs (stabilimenti) so that you’ll find your chairs and umbrellas waiting for you. Saturdays in August can be very crowded. The bigger clubs are to the south of the town. I tend to prefer the north beach, but I think the club all belong to hotels.
Hi Elizabeth,
We are coming to Italy from Toronto Canada Sept 6th for three weeks. I have to tell you that after a fun but exhausting search of where to finish up our 30th anniversary trip I found SPERLONGA! Proud to say, all on my own with no imput. I found your site today and have a question. We are staying at the Grand Hotel Tiberio in Rome and I am really not sure which trains to take etc to Sperlonga. This is the only issue I am having with travel. Could you please guide me as to the best way to get from our hotel to Sperlonga? We are then staying a fab 5 days at Hotel Aurora and can’t wait! We are then taking the train back to Hotel Tiber , on the sea by the airport in Rome. Help ! Appreciate all of your knowledge.
Grazie,
Elizabeth
You should be able to find the schedule on the Trenitalia site: http://www.trenitalia.com/tcom-en
You are going from Roma to Fondi/Sperlonga
I was confused as there are a few options from Roma…thinking Termini?
Termini is the main station, but if the train stops elsewhere in Rome that is ok too. Sometimes even better since Termini can be a bit of a nightmare.
I forgot to mention that I have secured one the Rose Di Mare terraces at Hotel Aurora that overlook the sea! They were fabulous helping me book with them back in January. We are sooo excited!
The best!!!!
Thankyou Elizabeth. I shall ask at the hotel, which train is best to take from there. What are your favorite restaurants in Sperlonga? The weather should be lovely Sept 19 for our 5 days. How lucky to be able to spend 3 glorious weeks in Italy! Will also be enjoying a gondola ride in Venice on my birthday! Can’t wait…2 weeks tomorrow!