You’d think that after living in Rome for as long as I have, that there’d be precious little left to surprise me. Just the opposite. Or, rather, I am constantly surprised by how much there is that still surprises me.
Does that make sense?
So much of Rome lies behind crumbling stone walls, tall metal gates or within the confines of private courtyards. This was truly brought home to me when I was working on my first book, Private Rome. As the title suggests, it was a look at the private side of the city. Armed with the excuse of researching the book, I was welcomed into the living rooms, boudoirs and ballrooms (yes!) of palazzi and penthouses all over the city.
While I was prepared to see amazing views, frescoed walls and sculpture-filled niches what really took me by complete surprise were the gardens. Gardens with pools, gardens with fruit orchards, gardens with (of course) Baroque fountains. All in the center of Rome.
Who knew?
Ever since then, whenever I see an open gate, or an unguarded courtyard, I slip in, as quickly as I can, too see what’s there, before I get kicked out.
The other evening my friend Guido Orsini invited us to the opening of his photography exhibit at a gallery here in Rome, Sala 1. After I’d seen the show (which was gorgeous, go see it!) and caught up with some old friends, I noticed that the huge gate next to the gallery was open. Even though I’d been to the gallery before, the gate had somehow escaped me. So of course I went through before it swung shut.
As you can see from these photos the garden behind the gates was pretty amazing. Of course, as with many of Rome’s private gardens, it belongs to the Vatican and is part of the Pontifical Office for the Scala Santa of San Giovanni. While I’m sure the garden is beautiful all year round, the recent rainy spring weather meant that the hydrangeas were out of this world gorgeous.
And did I mention that it overlooks San Giovanni in Laterano? So there’s the view too.
And various fowl. (I always love a good goose)
I’m sorry, but I have to repeat: who knew?
I’ve decided to become a bit more proactive in my hidden garden search. Google maps is my friend. Where there is green, I will go. (or at least try)
Guido Orsini: Natura delle Cose Natura dei Fati
Sala1
Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni, n. 10, Roma
Hours: Tues.-Saturday., 16.30 -19.30, until 15 July 2013
Tel: (+39) 06 700.8691
(I’m not sure at all about the possibility of visiting the garden, but if the gate is open, next to the gallery, go for it!)
Guido Orsini will be opening a companion exhibition, of large scale photographs of gardens, on July 5, at another hidden space:
Capo di Bove: Via Appia Antica n. 222,
Monday – Saturday 10 – 4; Sunday 10 – 6pm
ahhh, will have to pick your brain before I’m there in the fall…
I love this garden! My boyfriend’s father just recently created a sculpture for this garden, so I had a chance to sneak a peak around the grounds. Have you seen the bronze sculpture? The contrast between the geometric sculpture against the garden is really beautiful.
I think the garden is open when the museum is open! Or it is supposed to be anyways…
Gorgeous! I had a friend years ago who lived in this incredible 1930’s era apartment in Parioli with a dreamy private garden and a private pool. I can’t remember now if it was the Vatican who owned it or who paid for it. They sure have some great real estate.
Per favore non smettere di dare un occhio a questi segreti giardini !
I would love to take a gardening class there next summer. Any suggestions? Thanks.
By ‘there’ to you mean in this garden? I’m afraid it’s a private garden, and so I don’t think there are any courses there. If you are interested in taking a gardening course in Rome, then I’d suggest googling (in Italian) for courses. There must be some, but not sure if they take place in the summer. They tend to be specific to pruning, etc.