Al Tranvai has the reputation of being one of those old fashioned, traditional restaurants in the working class neighborhood of San Frediano. But for some reason it often slips between the cracks of foodie destinations and is never on the top of anyone’s hit list.
It should be. Al Tranvai serves some of the best – and often creative food – in Florence, at an extremely reasonable price with some of the friendliest service around.
The restaurant, founded in 1985, is in the leafy and quiet Piazza Tasso. This is at the far reaches of the working class San Frediano neighborhood, and so way off most tourists tracks. The weird sounding name refers to both it’s shape – long and skinny like a tram car – as well as the actual bright green tram car front that divides the dining room from the otherwise open kitchen. (to each his own)
Rustic wooden tables take the place of tram seats, running on either side of the restaurant. Daily specials (which change at lunch and dinner) are written up on the chalk board and a scrap of butcher’s paper taped to the wall.
Expect to find classics like pappa al pomodoro and ribollita. But don’t be surprised by more innovative offerings like risotto ai porri (leek risotto) and gnudi gorgonzola e asparagi (ricotta dumplings with blue cheese and asparagus.)
Second courses are just as tempting. Again, they range from the uber classic : trippa, peposa (beef stew) and lesso rifatto (sauteed boiled beef) to somewhat lighter asparagus souffle. I loved the mix of bacala, potatoes and leeks that came served piping hot in its own cute, bright orange casserole dish. But for me their stellar dish is the coniglio fritto con zucchini: a huge pile of crispy fried rabbit served with equally crunchy spears of deep fried zucchini. I mean really, how often do you see fried rabbit on a menu?
Save room for dessert, since the owner/chef is a master. The budino di castagne (chestunut pudding), served with purreed persimmon was a revelation. We also managed to grab the last slice of the thin, and intensely flavored, pear and chocolate tart.
Remember, this place is tiny. So make sure you buy your ticket reserve your seat on the tram ahead of time. 
Al Tranvai
Piazza Torquato Tasso, 14r
50124 Florence
055 225 197
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Gnocchi + gorgonzola? Say no more!
Exactly..fried rabbit?? I can’t wait to go there. We can hardly find rabbit on menus here!
This place sounds amazing!
This must be a sign! Earlier today I was writing up my “places I want to eat when I’m in Florence” and Al Tranvai is on my list. Now it is at the TOP of my list! I’ve walked by it a few times over the years and vowed I would eat there “next time”. Well, now I will!!! thank you for this wonderful post and photos!! I’ll be in Florence in 85 days!!!
Love the pictures Liz! Especially the budino! I saw this listing on your app and meant to stop by the last time I stayed in the Oltrarno but so many trattorie and so little time. 🙁
Any idea why it is “Al Tranvai” instead of “Al Tramvai”, which I thought was the Italian word for tram?
Nice blog! Another blogger sent me your link and it’s weird – I walked by this place yesterday on my way to the Chinese Rosticceria right down the street. I thought it looked worth a try, and then I see your blog! One question, though, their website say the following and I am sure it can’t be right: “Coperti: 50 + 15 esterni estivi” – what cover were you charged?
Haha! Coperti means covers, as in numbers of people seated. Not cover charge. So they seat 50 inside and another 15 outside in the summer.
Ah…thanks! I guess it would be good to understand the subtle difference between coperto and coperti!
i’m ready to go back again!
While the food was of good quality and tasted good, the portions were small, but the bill was not. If you have a large budget, no problem, but don’t expect 30 Euros to get very much for two people. We also felt treated like “just another couple of tourists not worth being polite or friendly to”, so of course the service was very poor, but the “coperto” was still added to the bill.
I’m sorry to hear you didn’t have a good experience. But spending 15 Euros per person in any restaurant of quality in Florence will not get you much. I’m sure can certainly eat more cheaply elsewhere. But you usually get what you pay for, and as you admitted, the quality here is high. And coperto does not cover ‘servizio.’ They are two separate charges, with coperto covering the bread and setting, while ‘servizio’ would be the equivalent of a tip.