When the weather starts getting hot, at the end of May, beginning of June, everyone (including me) starts thinking about gelato. New gelato places, best places to get gelato, new gelato trends. You know what I mean. Every one wants to read about gelato.
But now that the weather is finally turning Fall-ish, I’ve noticed an uptick in another kind of query. Yes, it’s meat season. At least that’s what people have been asking for lately. To be more specific, I’ve gotten tons of questions from clients on my tours, readers on my blog, through my apps and over at Chowhound asking for the best place to find bistecca in Florence.
Eating bistecca alla fiorentina in Florence is kind of like the foodie equivalent of buying a leather jacket or a pair of gloves. (Is it a cooincidence they both involve cows? Food for thought. Pun intended )
Anyway, to answer your question, here is my short list.
Please note: this post is not called “Best bistecca alla Fiorentina in Florence.” This is not a ‘best of’ list. This is simply my own personal list of where I go to eat meat. While it has a lot to do with quality of meat, it is also all about the setting and the entire experience. There are at least a half dozen well known places that aren’t on my list. Sorry. Maybe the steak is good there, and maybe you go there. So you can put them on your list and by all means, feel free to add them below in the comments. I’d love to hear where you go.
And one more thing. I’m not a huge steak eater and when I go to Florence I’m more likely to settle my meat craving at a tripe stand and save my sit-down restaurant meals for pappa al pomodoro or ribolitta. But I do like meat and the following list is where I sate my cravings when they go beyond a panino di lampredotto.
Sostanza: That’s the photo above. I mean, really, with a grill like that going in the back, is there anything more to say? Actually, I have said more, here. While I usually end up ordering the pollo al burro, the steak is fabulous, cooked over a charcoal grill.
Trattoria Due G.: Located not far from the train station this “red-checked table cloth” place is almost entirely taken over by Florentine business men at lunch time. Ordering? What else: bistecca alla fiorentina. That’s endorsement enough for me.
All’Antica Ristoro dei Cambi: Huge piles of glistening meat great you as you walk in. As does the very friendly staff. Very casual and cozy and decidedly meat-centric. I also love the antipasti.
Tre Soldi: I don’t go here for bistecca alla fiorentina but have become addicted to their more elegant version: tagliata. They serve it almost raw, but charred at the edges, seasoned with a chopped mix of herbs and lard. Obscenely good.
Cipolla Rossa: My friend Judy introduced me to this place, and insisted I order the grilled pork chop. Judy is always right. Tender and grilled to perfection, it’s smothered with a mixture of raw red onions and balsamic vinegar. Again, more than slightly addicted to this.
Like I said, this is not the definitive bistecca list for Florence. But it is my list. For now at least. I’m sure I’ll be updating it next time the weather turns meaty.
Sostanza
Via della Porcellana 25
055.212.691
Trattoria I Due G
Via B. Cennini 6r
055.218.623
All’Antica Ristoro dei Cambi
Via San Onofrio 1r
055.217.134
Tre Soldi
Via d’Annuzio 4r
055.679.366
Cipolla Rosso
Via dei Conti 53
055.214.210
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I am missing my post yoga, steak sandwich, zimbabwe breakfasts now.
I just grabbed Kevin to show him these photos before he left for the train. Now he’s got steak on the brain on Metro North.
Um. Well. Doesn’t Kevin always have steak on the brain?
Oh, I took one look at that picture and knew exactly what your first restaurant rec would be! We have eaten at Sostanza 3 times (most recently as a daytrip from Rome – and we were only in Rome for 2.5 days) and have never had bistecca, because I can’t get past the chicken!! But next time, I promise, we will have Mario grill us up some bistecca!
Me too, next time steak!!!
I am drooling in anticipation of my visit in February.
I saw the grill and knew it was my favorite place. I’ve been to Sostanza 20 times, all the way from Texas. I have yet to have the steak, because I can’t get away from the pollo al burro (and the meringue cake.)
Sostanza sums up Florence for me.
I know, it’s somehow the perfect Florentine restaurant you dream of. But it really exists.
Beautiful pictures! One of the highlights of my travels in Italy was eating bistecca fiorentina on the terrace of a restaurant in Fiesole with a gorgeous sunset over Florence below. Nostalgic!
Is the fourth photo Tre Soldi? I am ready to get on the next plane!! Seriously, I have been home two hours from a three day hospital stay with no appetite and I open this post. Thank you for appeasing your meat loving readers.
Yes, that’s Tre Soldi! And when I was writing this post, that is the photo that did me in too.
I love it when the weather turns a little meaty 🙂
I might also need a pair of leather gloves to Stay warm!
Yum. I thing I need to try Tre Soldi and Cipolla Rossa. SOON.
My sister, who was with me when we met up with you quite by accident in the Campo, took a day trip to Florence just to have her favorite dinner in her favorite restaurant, Sostanza.
I thought she was nuts~ really~ leave Rome for a day when we only had 10 days? and just to have Chicken in Butter?
But now I see you have a love for this place too~so I am wondering if you can give me a recipe that would allow me to replicate this dish so good it makes one leave Rome.
And since we are talking about Florence, do you happen to know where the chef from the old Trattoria Antellesi (Marco?) is now cooking?
Sorry, you’ll just have to go to Sostanza to have the butter chicken there! It really is one of those dishes that are one place specials.
we’re planning a Wednesday day trip to Florence. how far in advance would you recommend 7:30 reservations for Sostanza?
(your eat rome app has been a big help in planning the rest of our week. thanks)
This Wednesday? I’d suggest calling as soon as possible. Wednesday you should be ok, but Sostanza does tend to book up, especially for dinner.
sorry i was unclear. our trip to rome is the first week in april. our list (between your site, app and chow hound) is long enough that our eating plans are flexible. is there any downside to making a few reservations that we’re sure of (sostanza, la gensola in rome) this early?
For simpler places, like Sostanza, it’s probably best to wait until about 3 weeks ahead. Too early and they just get confused.
Nice list! I have not been to them all yet… I feel like it’s my mission to track down the best bistecca in Florence. What do you think of Perseus, Il Fiesolano? I liked T.Sostanza, but found Perseus’ bistecca more impressive. Il Latini is two thumbs down for me.
Thank you for the amazing recommendations. The pork with red onions at Cipolla Rossa is an all time favorite meal. I am unlikely to make it back to Florence any time soon (sob!) but would like to attempt to recreate that pork. Do you know if the recipe exists somewhere short of emailing the restaurant and begging for it?
I’m glad you loved that dish as much as I do! I don’t have the recipe though, sorry!