It used to be that the point of any day trip around Umbria was ending up at Salvatore Denaro’s restaurant in Foligno, Il Bacco Felice. Ever since Salvatore closed his place a few years ago I have a reliable back up plan: I call Salvatore and ask for his advice.
So when I headed to Bevagna a couple of weeks ago I just did what Salvatore advised: head to Antiche Sere. “It’s an honest place” said Salvatore. And when Salvatore says a place is honest, he’s not talking about the final bill, but about the integrity of the ingredients that go into the dishes. “And tell Luciano I sent you.”
Located beneath the Porta di Canara, at the East end of town, the unpretentious spot was just what we were looking for. The olives that came to our table immediately were a good sign: firm and obviously Italian (not the mushy Tunisian olives that are turning up everywhere these days).
While settling into a crisp and cold glass of Umbrian white, we ordered off the day’s menu. Emma, Gillian and I decided to split a couple of appetizers To start: a simple plate of sardines topped with red onions and a sprinkling of parsley. A bit of lemon and a drizzle of olive oil, and it’s kind of the perfect first course that I’m definitely going to be copying. Next up, Luciano’s minimal version of panzanella: chopped tomatoes tossed with a sliced onion and a handful of torn bread.
After our long walk through Bevagna Gillian and Emma decided they had earned a big bowl of pasta. Emma, being Emma, went directly for the truffles, which were heaped on freshly made fettucine. Even though it was about 100 degrees out, Gillian chose the area specialty: gnocchi al sagrantino. Plump little potato dumplings in a bright purple sauce made from the local wine.
My roast beef was definitely the lightest of the dishes. Sliced thinly and dressed in a lemony vinaigrette, it was draped over a bed of fresh greens and was exactly what I wanted.
Even though Salvatore couldn’t stop by and join us for lunch, he made sure a plate of his heirloom tomatoes, straight from his nearby garden, did.
One tiramisu to split three ways, some coffee and we were ready to say goodbye to Bevagna.
And if you’re wondering what the weird symbol is on the place mat, it’s the logo for being an anarchist. So I guess Luciano is an anarchist, and proud of it. And a black sheep while he’s at it. But whatever he is, Salvatore was right. He runs and ‘honest’ restaurant. Good to know. 
Antiche Sere
Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 10
Bevagna +39.0742.361.938
Wow, very nice shots! This place captured my curiosity…I’ll go as soon as possible.
Looks and sounds delicious.
One day I will make it to that region of Italy.
Yes, let’s get you up for a visit!
An honest place is just what I crave! Marvelous reminder that good food is not difficult to achieve if you know how to select good ingredients.
The gnocchi sagrantino brought tears to my eyes…Thank you!
I have serious food envy! Antiche Sere goes on my list …..you always find the best places. Thanks for sharing the story and great photos.
So yummy. Have to visit this place and have every thing you shared. Restaurant WordPress Templates
Want to hop on a plane and then auto-stop straight to Bevagna and Antiche Sere!
Torturous! This all just looks so amazingly delicious. Might just have to make panzanella for lunch now with sardines on the side… 🙂
Oh, you know how to make a girl weep… especially right around lunchtime. Will now go slice some desultory tomatoes to have with my ice-cold “buffalo” mozzarella and dream of Umbrian sunshine and panzanella.
Wow – another fab post. You are always on the move from one wonderful spot to another. Thank you so much, Elizabeth, for taking us along.
Elizabeth….Started following your blog when I was searching for Salvatore after eating in Foligno four years ago. Then, come to find out, you are friends with owner of Angeli Caffe (sad it’s gone, was a favorite) We will be in Rome in ten days. Then, a visit to Caprai. After reading of your visit to Bevagna, we will certainly follow in your footsteps. Your photos have been amazing. Only sorry we can’t meet in Rome. Perhaps another time.
Your sister from another mother.
We are headed to Umbria in September and will be staying in Montefalco. We’d like to plan a visit to Antiche Sere – do you know what days they are closed? We’ll be in the area on a Monday, which is always a bit of a challenge. Thanks!
I think they are closed on Sundays, but not 100% sure.
Thanks – I’ll let you know! We are very excited for the wine festival in Montefalco – looks like it is going to be lots of fun.