I’m never one to make it to the opening night of a restaurant. Or the opening month for that matter. I have colleagues who rush to the newest place and seemingly blog about it on their way home. I’m lucky in that respect, because that’s usually how I end up hearing about what’s hot and what’s not.
It’s been about a year that I’ve been reading about Cesare al Casaletto. (here, here, here , here and here are just a few of the Italian reviews). And I’ve been meaning to go, really I have. But it sounded so far away (add slightly whiny tone here). I kept reading that it was in Casaletto, which sounded like another city or something.
But as my good friends Betta and Ruth pointed out, Casaletto is just the name of a street, and it’s only a block away from where they live in Monteverde. In Rome. And that wasn’t the only thing to convince me. Last week we were at Flavio Velavevodetto and Flavio himself told me he thought it was the best trattoria in Rome at the moment.
No more excuses.
And just so you know before I continue: I agree with Flavio. It is, hands down, my new favorite restaurant in Rome (sorry Flavio, partly your fault this).
When you do go (and go you will) don’t be put off by the setting. It’s on the ground floor of a nondescript ‘seventies era apartment building. The outdoor terrace looks like an abandoned bar more than Rome’s hottest restaurant.
Which is actually kind of charming.
Inside is bright, simple and cheerful. Oddly hued lilac walls and wooden wainscoting were obvious attempts to tart the place up. But nothing too designy or sleek, which felt just right. In fact, the current owner, Leonardo, took things over a couple of years ago and wisely decided to keep the dining room and ambiance relaxed and simple, while aiming his attention of the kitchen. It feels very much like a neighborhood hang out, complete with families with children and tables of older locals.
Do look at the menu, but also be open to the daily specials. Or don’t. My problem was that once I had read the menu and then listened to Leonardo I wanted to try absolutely everything. Luckily we were four, so were able to do quite a bit of damage.
First up their justifiably famous fritti. In the short time they have been cooking them, their polpette di bollito con pesto di basilico have become one of their signature dishes. If you’re thinking left over meat, rolled into balls, think again. Each small orb is a crispy crunchy fried skin encircling succulent, meaty and roasty tasting beef. With a dollop of perfect basil on top.
Fried Gnocchi. Who knew? What a brilliant idea. And served atop a fondue of caccio e pepe? I could eat this every night.
We all agreed that the paper cone filled with deep fried totani – baby squid – was the best fried fish we had ever had.
Oops, I forgot to mention our wine experience. Fantastic wine list. Again, hard to choose what to order. Lots of natural wines (are you reading this Alice?) and many from very small, hard to find, producers. We chose a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Praesidium. A very small producer that I’d heard good things about. Since I knew we would go through at least two bottles I held back and ordered the 2006, which I think was about 18 euros. When we were ready for the next bottle, Leonardo brought it quickly to the table opened it, tried it, and took it away just as quickly. Something was up. He finally came back, apologetic. His last bottle of 2006 was corked. Could he substitute the 2001 Riserva? But at the same price of 18 euros of course, rather than the 38 it should have been?
Ok. I’ve been going to restaurants in Rome long enough to know that this never happens. Ever. So, thank you Leonardo, your extreme graciousness would have made me love your restaurant even if we had had nothing more to eat at this point.
But we did.
Of course we did.
We ordered two pastas for the table. The new trend in Roman restaurants is to take a classic, and spin it into something even better. Gricia con carciofi is a brilliant idea, because really, how can anything not be improved by artichokes? And as much as I love vignarola, I like it even better tangled up with a mess-o-tagliarini.
Jane and Betta ordered the fish special of the day: a perfectly cooked filet of ombrina. Ruth had a pile of crispy, juicy lamb chops. And me? Of course I went straight for the grilled pork liver wrapped in laurel leaves (which will never look as good in a photograph as it tasted in my mouth).
After this grande abbuffata we all agreed: absolutely no dessert. No way. Until somehow, before we knew what was happening, we ordered the sublime dessert platter. Six of their greatest hits including panna cotta with caramel, two types of crostata (butter made crust!); tiramisu; zabaione and millefoglia. With four spoons. With which, by the end, we were fighting each other with to scoop up the very last bits.
The moral of this story? Don’t wait like I did to eat at this amazing restaurant. I missed out on an entire year of eating here. What was I thinking? I wasn’t. But you can. You have no excuse. At this point you trust me, right?
Cesare al Casaletto
Via del Casaletto 45
+39.06.536.015
Although you could take a taxi there, it’s really easy to take Tram number 8, which leaves from Largo Argentina. Get off at Casaletto, and the restaurant is only 1 block away.
I walked past this place all the time last year on my way to tennis lessons. How did I miss it?!
Your lunch sounds amazing. I have to go.
Lovely review. Can’t wait to go back. Am fantasizing about those gnocchi. Monteverde rocks!
“Fried Gnocchi. Who knew? What a brilliant idea. And served atop a fondue of caccio e pepe?” That’s all I need.
I know. Just when you thought gnocchi couldn’t get any better, right?
(or more fattening)
This looks amazing!(adds to rapidly growing list of Rome must-dos)
Oh my!!!
I think I gained 10 pounds just looking at the fotos!!!
Wow! Fried gnocci with Caccio e pepe fondue? That is nothing less than evil genius. This just made to top of my restaurant list for next visit.
Two Words: Drool, Drool.
Would I be nuts if I said I want to buy a plane ticket to Rome just to eat here? 🙂 My mouth is watering just looking at the pictures!
I would expect no less from you.
About how long does it take to get there on the tram from Lago Argentina?
I want it ALL….including the wine!!!
thanks so much Elizabeth – I am sure it must be a great sacrifice for you to try such a feast to entertain us 😉
Oh goody…two good restaurants near the Tram 8~ L’Osteria di Monteverde and now this!
thanks
I will be in Rome on the 25th May on a cruise. This sounds like a perfect place for lunch to try. How would we get there from Termini?? Is it far? Wonder what a taxi sould cost??
It just looks fabulous! Pam
A taxi would probably cost about 15 euros, from Termini. It is kind of far….it’s definitely a fabulous place, but it may be a tiny bit out of the way if you are only in Rome for one day?
Oooh, that was painful. But in a good way! And yes, we really trust you and even if there was the tiniest waver of doubt (which there isn’t) these photos could clear that up instantly! Holy cow, every single thing looks amazing.
Ohhhh – I’m drooling. Do you need a reservation? If so, how is the best way to make one from Canada? I looked for a website and couldn’t find one
Best way to make a reservation is to call. They don’t have a web site.
So cool to hear about this! I will try it next time I visit my family as it’s very close.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for the tip on Cesare. We were in Rome 1 1/2 weeks ago and took the #8 tram out to Casaletto. It was definitely worth the short ride. Cesare himself was a wonderful host with a charming manner and our meal was delicious.
This looks AMAZING……I am absolutely drooling! Do you know if they can be reached by email? Email address? Are they open on Christmas Eve or Christmas (when I will be there with my 3 children)? Your write-up is fabulous!
Sadly (or thank god) Rome restaurants are still non email friendly. I don’t know of their opening hours yet for X-mas, and they might not know yet either. Try and give them a call!
Hello,
I just bought your app EATROME! Great job.. I am traveling with my famiky to Rome during the Xmas break, we are a family of 5 all adults. What restaurant would you advise me? We need to reserve in advance right? I am looking for an affordable restaurant cosy with a nice atmosphere and good food ofcourse! Please let me know! Thanks!!
Tracy
Hi Tracy, you can write to me directly for advice. It all depends on where you are. But I love Cesare, but also Perilli. But there are a few more centrally located places as well that are great.
Getting there was easy from the Parione neighborhood on the #8 tram.
The gnocchi fritti are indeed spectacular; the two of us had to leave a half-dozen on the platter to save room for our shared primo and secondo. A liter of the house red went well; it’s nice to not fret about wine as we do when dining in California.
The restaurant was molto vivace—surprising on a Tuesday evening.
I told Maria Pia who clued me in, so if she mentions an American couple it was us…
Glad you made it there!! I’m due for a return visit soon.
Fried gnocchi = one of my favorite things. I mean can you blame me? Glad to hear that other people are so blown away! I just added this place to my lists of “musts” for my next visit.