You know when you just need a little bit of wine to see you through a recipe? Just a cup, or even less. This used to be no problem. Domenico and I would start a bottle of wine with dinner, drink another couple of glasses the next night, and then have a bit left over that I would save for cooking. I’d usually have at least three or four of these opened bottles on the counter at any given time, waiting to be poured into stews, braises or soups.
But one of the side effects of switching over to drinking cocktails in the evening (and you know I’m not going into the other side effects) is that I no longer have those open bottles of wine laying around. And the thought of cracking open a bottle just for cooking seems just plain wasteful.
The other night I was backed into a no-wine corner. You see, I wanted to make a very simple risotto, with just onions, cheese and a bit of herbs. But wine was also a key player, to add acidity and body and depth. Then I had a revelation.
What if I took our cocktail addiction preference, and let it inform my risotto? That’s when I remembered a popular risotto recipe from the early ’90’s in Rome. There were a few years when every dinner party I’d go to would feature Risotto Soledad, using Lungarotti’s earthy sherry as a base for the risotto. Sadly, Lungarotti stopped making that sherry ages ago, and the dish fell out of favor. With that recipe in mind I opened the liquor cabinet, but still no luck. Sherry? Who drinks sherry? (No wonder Lungarotti jumped ship)
I did, however, have my choice of vermouths, and then some. (See. I told you there was a benefit in drinking cocktails every evening.)
As with all things simple, this dish depended on top notch ingredients. Aged pecorino from the farmer’s market, Acquerello rice and big fat sweet onions from our friend Paolo’s farm. However when it came to the vermouth, I decided that I didn’t really need to waste my precious Carpano or Lillet, so just grabbed the every day Martini Extra Dry, which worked out more than fine.
The moral of this story? I know it has something to do with drinking cocktails every evening….
Risotto with Vermouth
2 onions
2 cups rice
1 cup grated pecorino (not romano)
salt, pepper
1 cup dry white vermouth
4 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 cups rich chicken broth, warm
Chop onion finely. Add to pot big enough to hold all the risotto, along with 2 tablespoons of butter and olive oil. Saute at low heat until the onion softens. About 10 minutes or so.
Add about a tsp of salt, stir, and add the rice. Turn up the heat a bit, and stir the rice until it is well coated.
Add the vermouth, and stir, until evaporated. Add about a cup of broth, and stir. Keep adding more broth and stirring until the rice is almost done. When it only has about 4 more minutes to cook, add the rest of the butter and stir. Then add the cheese and stir.
Serve topped with freshly grated pepper. 
I’ve been reading about Julia Child and one of her biographies says she listed dry vermouth in her recipes as a substitute for white wine because 1960s American households couldn’t find decent wine. I’ve kept vermouth on hand for emergencies ever since!
PS Julia’s cocktail of choice was an upside-down martini– a glass of chilled vermouth with the gin bottle waved over the top. Intriguing, but I haven’t tried it!
Love the idea of an upside down martini!
My mother-in-law grew up in a dry county, in a religion that doesn’t allow alcohol. Once she started tasting my sauces I brought her a bottle of dry vermouth every year, as Julia said it can be kept. As can Marsala. It took me six weeks to find it in Utah (and no-one can ship to Utah) but we’ve had a few lovely chicken marsalas of late.
Thanks for sharing your risotto experience–I always wondered if there were others out there who had to “wing it” from time to time.
I also know the feeling of not having a wine available when making risotto (one that feels appropriate to use anyway). In fact I’ve even used sake! I know that I probably broke a dozen Asian taboos by doing so, but it turned out *really* well. Imagine, using rice wine to help cook rice….
P.S. I still drink sherry (and have found that a “fino” or “manzanilla” works very nicely also).
I’m sorry, but I just have to ask….Ebenezer PentWeazle??
I have to defend sherry drinking….while I agree that Harvey’s Bristol Cream is the preferred tipple of grandmothers when you next go to Spain ask the tapas bar guys for a sherry tasting. You may be surprised.
APB
I so love vermouth, as soon as I saw your title, I knew I would have to flag this recipe for future use. Looks wonderful!
I make a great onion soup that calls for sherry while cooking. Then when you serve it you drizzle a bit more over each serving
A bottle of wine can last 2 nights plus have left over for cooking? Not in my house!
I knew someone was going to mention that!!
I’ve used vermouth – the cheap(er) stuff – for years, especially if I only need a cup or less, and don’t want to open a bottle. (Though I usually do want to!) It works fine, especially in sauce for fish. I think I too must have gotten this idea from Julia. Also, when I was young, and just beginning to “cocktail”, it was very chic to have a small glass of vermouth over ice, with a twist of lemon. Proably more of Julia’s influence. It actually didn’t taste too bad!
I can’t think of a better way to use the unused wine~the vermouth must give it a kick! A perfect meal to keep you warm with all that nasty weather you have been having!
Hi Elizabeth!
I have been reading your blog for a while now… Thank you for the “snowy” pics of Rome!
Just tried your Risotto out for lunch: superb! I transformed the recipe for my beloved kitchen machine – the Thermomix (called “Bimby” in Italian), which – believe it or not – is an excellent Risotto-Cooker: it turned out wonderfully: creamy and savoury – real italian. While enjoying, I dreamt of being in Rome… Thank you for the recipe!! I have to whip it up for my Italy-loving friends soon :-))
I actually do know the “bimby” as many friends swear by it. Glad it worked out well!
Oh, this is fabulous!
Yesss… and: you can have all ingredients in your pantry/fridge!
I love all Risottos and will try your “sherry” version. Funny, my husband and I switched from the “cocktails to vino……. 🙂
Thanks for all the good recipes, restaurants and observations. Your artichoke video was a life saver and I recommend your restaurants to my clients….giving you credit of course!
I made your recipe last night and it was delicious! The Acquerello rice from my Italian food store was also a revelation. I am still learning the art of perfect risotto, and this rice didn’t stick at all. Thanks!
Glad to hear it! Also glad you managed to find Acquerello rice.
Greetings,
How nice to hear talk of vermouth. Have you tried the re-release from the House of Cocchi? I honor of their 120th anniversary, their Vermouth di Torino is once again available – made from a Moscato base it is a knockout. It has a cocoa, citrus thing going on that I just love. Give it a try. And thank you for another wonderful post.
No, I haven’t tried that one, but will search it out. My big treasure trove is the 6 cases of mixed liqueurs and vermouths that we just found in Domenico’s aunts apartment. All xmas gifts over the decades, never opened. Wish me luck!
Oh my, but how cool is that? 6 cases. Wow. I can’t wait to hear about the tasting experiences. Speaking of tasting experiences – I was just pouring some Solerno blood orange liqueur. (I thought I would mention it just in case you are not familiar with it.) I discovered it last year, and I love it. It is like a citrus grove in a bottle with a lovely citrus perfume. Its clear orange flavor leaves other liqueurs such as Gran Marnier tasting decidedly old fashioned. And the bottle itself is a design award winner, a total knockout. If you are not familiar with it, give it a go.