floating candle wicks from barcelona

I’m a creature of habit. When I’m in the car in Rome my brain sometimes goes on autopilot and I find myself heading north towards our house in Todi, even if I’m only going towards the supermarket. The same thing happens to my feet when I’m in a foreign city. If I’ve been there before I always seem to end up heading down streets that are familiar. Even if I think I’m exploring a new neighborhood, there I am, in front of a favorite shop where I’ve bought things in the past.

That happened to me a few weeks ago in Barcelona. I actually had a destination in mind and was headed towards a much-loved ceramic shop. But once I’d found it, (and stocked up) I decided to just wander aimlessly. Of course I soon found myself in front of another store I love in Barcelona: Antiga Cereria Lluis Codina.

Cereria Codina is located in the shadow of the city’s Cathedral in Barri Gotic. If you don’t speak Spanish and haven’t already gathered by the name, the store specializes in candles. But not just any candles. It’s raison d’etre is to service all the waxy needs of the Cathedral which towers over it.

Even though I’m a nice Jewish girl from the Midwest, I’m always tempted by the elaborately decorated blue and pink baptismal candles and really wish I could figure out a use for an cellophane-wrapped baby Jesus. They also sell entire families of saints with their entourages.

While I always pick up a dozen hand dipped plain candles what I really come here for are the tiny boxes of floating candle wicks. I’ve never seen them anywhere else, and I think they are one of the all time best inventions ever.

I first came across them during an Oldways trip, way back when. At one of the many olive oil themed celebration dinners I attended the table was lit with these tiny floating wicks. Each one was floating in a wine goblet that had been filled halfway up with water. After adding a 1/4 inch of olive oil the wick was floated on top and lit.

They are pretty ingenious little things. A circle of cork and cardboard with a tiny wick inserted in the middle. They float atop a slick of olive oil, drawing the edible fuel up and burning it throughout the meal.

I’m not sure what the original liturgical use of these wicklets were. They were most likely used to light at an altar. I use them throughout the summer, at my own little altars to good food. In Rome I pull out the fancy wine glasses, creating a shimmery scene. But in Todi I end up using some chunky tumblers I picked up at a flea market. Anything works, really, that’s the charm of these little lamparillos.

I also love the fact that they use edible oil, not that awful smelly fuel used for lamps. I use two year old olive oil (which we always seem to have in abundance) but have also used vegetable oil in a pinch.

So whenever I’m in Barcelona or know someone who is going to Barcelona I stock up. The boxes are tiny, and each one has about 15-20 wicks and costs just a couple of euros. Did I mention they also make perfect gifts? But some of you already know that.










Antiga Cerreria Lluis Codina
Carrer del Bisbe 2
933 150 808