pasta with sardines, pistachios and orange

Culinary disaster struck yesterday. I’m proud to say that total kitchen failure doesn’t strike that often, but when it does, it usually involves yeast. This was going to be the week I finally had time to try out my post-Bonci pizza making skills. On Monday I stopped by Domus Birrae and picked up two kilos of Mulino Marino flour. Tipo 0 for the pizza, and Grano Duro for Focaccia. Yes, I was going to go all out.

So, Monday I followed all my Bonci notes, stirring, mixing, ‘regenerating’ and – of course – photographing all the while. At the beginning I realized I had stupidly forgotten to buy yeast, but a quick run to my next door neighbor Sienna solved that.

Monday, 9pm, I put my four balls of dough (a kilo each!) safely in the fridge to rise over night.

Cut to Tuesday, 4pm. I go to check on my babies and they are….completely dead. Nothing. Not one millimeter of rise. For purely photographic purposes I had kept the package of yeast. Yup, you guessed it. Expired Nov. 2009. While I should have checked the date, I feel justified in placing the blame squarely on Sienna’s shoulders. (Why not? She doesn’t have a blog yet, so can’t defend herself).

At this point my enthusiasm for dinner was waning fast. I had no desire to go out shopping, so turned to my trusty pantry. Once again, canned fish comes to the rescue. I reached way in the back of the cupboard, and came out with can of sardines. Not sure when I had picked them up (don’t worry, I checked the expiration date) but sure glad I did.

Pasta con Le Sarde is a delicious Sicilian dish that I often order in restaurants, but had never made. I’m pretty sure it usually has raisins in it, and possibly fresh sardines. And pine nuts? Having none of the above, I decided to wing it. Pistachios – from Bronte of course – added crunch and that sweet nutty taste. I added oranges – zest and juice – since I’m adding oranges to everything these days and it also seemed very Sicilian. I would have/should have added toasted breadcrumbs at the end (I know my friend Mona would have done so) but was just too lazy. But it was pretty good anyway.

By the way, the shape, Trofie, worked perfectly. This was a pack I picked up at an autostrada rest stop on our way back from Bari. If you are driving in the south of Italy, and see a Sarni rest stop, definitely go in. They always have a buy four/pay three deal for this brand of pasta in hard-to-find shapes like trofie and orecchiette. In any case, do try to find a shape that is chewy and solid, like orecchiette or trofie.

Oh, and those four balls of un-risen dough? At the suggestion of my sister Jodi, my friend Evan and my cousin Suzy: Matzoh! Hmmm….Pizzarium-style Matzoh. Now there’s a thought. I’ve already bought the mortadella….








Pasta with Sardines, Pistachio and Orange
serves 4

400 gr./ 3/4 pound Pasta
1 can sardines
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
zest from one orange*
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
1/4 chopped chives
1/2 cup chopped pistachios

Heat olive oil in pan large enough to eventually hold all the pasta.

Add onions, salt and red pepper flakes to oil, and let onions cook very slowly, until softened but not browned. About 10 to 15 minutes.

In the meantime, bring large pot of salted water to boil. Add pasta and let cook till al dente.

Add sardines, with their oil, to onions and stir, breaking up the fish. Add the wine, and let bubble away for a few minutes, stirring. Add orange juice, and bring to boil briefly, stirring.

Add drained pasta to pan, over low heat, stirring thoroughly so pasta started absorbing some of the liquid and is well coated.

Turn off heat, add orange zest, pistachios and chives, stir well and serve.

*Orange Zest: I find that using a micro grater for orange zest is a bad idea. The pieces are too small and end up losing too much of their essential oils. Better to use a potato peeler, cut off long strips, and then chop with a knife.