kaymak: turkish clotted cream

I have many memories from Istanbul. But the one that inspires mouth-watering longing is our breakfast visit to Pando. Our friend Semsa (who owns the restaurant Kantin) had us meet her early one morning. We drove with her through tiny, winding streets as shop keepers set up their wares.

Semsa kept talking about kaymak, and every time she did so her eyes just about rolled back up in her head. So although I didn’t really understand what it was, I knew that whatever it was we were going to be eating was sure to be good.

We finally arrived at the door to a small, bright blue shop, it’s windows so steamy that we couldn’t even see in. Once we entered we were greeted by Pando himself, who stood behind the marble counter, ready to serve up plates of heavenly kaymak.

What is kaymak? It’s similar to clotted cream. Buffalo milk is boiled slowly, then simmered for a few hours over low heat. Once cooled, the cream is skimmed off and chilled, fermenting just enough to make it very slightly sour. But it’s much richer than clotted cream, almost buttery at 60% fat. It is thick, creamy and once you take a bite it slowly melts, enveloping your mouth in buttery, milky goodness. It is hard to describe, but once you have it, you can never forget it.

Pando is one of the few that are left that still make and serve it. This place has been in business since 1895, as the worn marble counter and painted cabinets bear witness. Pando’s hours depends on how fast he sells his wares. He makes just enough for one day (that’s it’s shelf life) and once he sells out he closes the doors till the next morning.

Most people stop by for the simple breakfast of kaymak, served with honey, and a glass of hot, steaming milk. We went for the full monty, which included a fried egg, and a plate of cheese, olives, tomatoes and cucumbers. And crusty bread of course.

Pando explains that the kaymak is made from Buffalo milk, while the hot milk we were drinking comes from cows.