You know when you spend a long time with someone, you can finish most of their stories yourself? Of course this happens when you are married to someone for a quarter of a century (that would be me). But even more than long time spouses? What about those stories that your siblings or parents tell? Over and over and over again? I won’t get into the whole ‘my memories are different from your memories’ family dynamic thing. It’s the stories themselves that bring nothing new to the table. Same old, same old, right?
But something surprising has been happening lately. My father is coming up with all these stories – about him, about our family – that I never heard before. I’m not sure if I just wasn’t paying attention up until now. Or maybe he’s just thinking more about ancient history these days. Regardless of the reason, I’ve been hearing a lot of family lore that is completely new to me.
And since we’re on the subject of both my father and bringing something new to the table, we can talk about the restaurant Pompiere. Pompiere is one a handful of restaurants I’ve been going to regularly with my father for just about all of my life. It’s located in the Jewish Ghetto but like the other three oldest restaurants in this neighborhood (Piperno, Giggetto and Sora Margherita) it is neither Jewish nor Kosher. Instead it is decidedly old fashioned Roman, with all the standards from carbonara to saltimbocca, with a few Jewish dishes (carciofi alla giudea) thrown in.
Still, a couple of things make Pompiere a bit different from the other restaurants in the neighborhood. First is its location. Situated on the piano nobile of Palazzo Cenci, the restaurant is virtually invisible from the street. A verical sign on a dark alley is the only indication that there are stairs leading up to three enormous rooms on the second floor. Since this is a piano nobile (the most important floor in a palazzo) the rooms are huge, with soaring ceilings and even some frescoes.
Another thing that sets Pompiere apart are some of its dishes. There are certain things I’ve only ever thought of ordering here. Although they have all the Roman classics, they also have things like Fettuccine al Limone, a creamy holdover from the Dolce Vita in the ‘sixties. I also can rarely resist their ‘Pecorara’ a plate full of fried goodies: brain, ricotta, lamb chops and artichokes. Heaven, right? While lots of other Roman restaurants talk up a good game of innards, Pompiere always delivers. Besides brain, I can always count on them to have things like sweetbreads and coratella.
But getting back to the original subject of bringing something new to the table. Last week when we joined my father for dinner at Pompiere. I was looking forward to hearing some new story from his memory banks. What I wasn’t prepared for was hearing something completely new from the waiter (who I’ve known for almost as long as I’ve known my father.) “Tonight we have Torzelli!” he said to my father, who seemed very happy to hear the news.
My reaction was pretty much “Say what?” After which both the waiter and my father just proceeded to repeat the word, saying it louder each time, like that would help.
Finally, my father realized I had no idea what anyone was talking about and filled me in. “It’s a kind of endive, the entire head, which is cooked and kind of crispy and filled with anchovies.” Well, ok. That sounded good. But how was it I was only hearing about this now?
Somehow, like my father’s stories, this dish had escaped me for about three decades.
Of course I ordered it. Anything that combines endive and fish has my seal of approval even before I taste it. Plus, I just didn’t really understand how an entire head of curly endive was going to make it on to my plate, so there was just pure curiosity too.
I hope you aren’t too disappointed by the photograph, which in no way does justice to the dish, which was amazing. As far as I can figure out, the entire head of curly endive is left whole, washed and then quickly blanched in boiling salted water, for about 30 seconds. It’s then carefully drained and patted dry. Filets of anchovies are inserted in between the leaves, then the entire thing is thrown into a very hot pan, with olive oil, and flipped until the outside is browned and crunchy. A magnificent combination of texture and tastes: sweet endive and salty anchovies, with the silky interior of the head of green contrasting with the crisp edges.
The rest of the dinner, while delicious, consisted of comforting old favorites. I of course ordered sweetbreads and artichokes. Domenico, after a perfect carbonara, dug into slow stewed calamari. My father, as he always does here, ordered the house speciality: a spatchcocked galletto, splayed open and roasted until crispy.
This dish is so famous that it’s even emblazoned on the dishes. A pompiere (fireman) is depicted putting out the fire on the roasted hen. My father, as he always does, pointed out the awkward position of the fireman’s, ahem, ‘tool’ for putting out the fire. A story I had heard plenty of times. But maybe you haven’t?
Al Pompiere
Via di Santa Maria de’ Calderari 38
+39.06.686.8377
Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Sunday.
For more on dining in Rome, download my app, Eat Italy, available on iTunes.
I think your photo of the endive is just lovely and so are your memories of times with your father. How lucky to be making new ones with him now.
Damn…I just want to tag along for dinner every night.
And we would gladly have you tag along
Be careful what you offer! I wish I has such facilities downstairs so I wouldn’t have to use snowshoes when feeling peckish.
OMG the snow! It was even on the Italian news. Time to move to Rome, don’t you think?
If you are offering the spare room I’m all in.
I enjoyed a fabulous dinner at Al Pompiere in 2018… Inwant to share it with my friends on this trip … What is the best way to contact Al Pompiere for Reservations?
They do not seem to be answering their phone…
Thank you so very much,
Arynne
They are currently undergoing renovations, and so closed for the entire month of August. Try again in September.
your dad is coming up with good stories these days- remember in todi??? love the hen. i want that for dinner, now
I gotta say that I look longingly at the white table cloths of Roman restaurants. Here in So Cal they have all but disappeared in the name of trendy industrial chic hot spots. Bare necessities for whopping bills and deafening acoustics and lots of attitude. I look at that reassuring room exactly the same as I knew back in the 70’s and feel the serenity of waiters who have been at their job for 30 years and know what to suggest to their faithful clientele. Sigh and Ubi Sunt.
Sad to say I couldn’t agree with you more……..and it keeps getting worse!
I’d recognize that hand anywhere!
This is one of my favorite posts of yours for the blending of all that you do so well. Merci.
Merci to you!!!!
Your stories of Rome are wonderful thank you Elizabeth. And i am particularly interested in the older ristorante that serve old favourites.
I laughed throughout this post, especially at the part about the repeating TORTELLIs. And don’t sell your photography shor! The mysterious dish looks delicious!
Yeah, that shouting thing hadn’t happened to me in Italy for quite a long time. Especially humiliating that it was coming from my father, since I’m usually on the translating/explaining end of things when it comes to Italian. Just goes to show.
omg…we ate here about 24 years ago. I still remember the zucchini flowers stuffed with anchovy paste (?) it was such a lovely meal and lovely setting.
How wonderful that you have all the memories of all the times you shared a meal at As Pompiere..just think how grateful your daughters will be in years to come to hear all your stories about these times! I wonder if they will do what my husband used to do when he Mom repeated stories…he would hold up the appropriate finger as to how many times he had heard it! What a son! Once again you have me running to my ever expanding list of places to try on our next trip to Rome…
Thanks for the beautiful and convincing review of this unique and typically Italian restaurant. I will surely consider it for my next visit to Rome! Pierre
Elizabeth: My eldest son is getting married on June 13th. In past blogs I have seen that you own a property in Rome, an apartment, which you rent out. I was wondering if this apartment would be available for the week of June 15,2015 and if this young couple could take some cooking classes with you. Tuti, my son has been to Rome before but Cristie, has not. Are there any tour that you would recommend. This of course, would be a surprise..I hope that I have not troubled you too much.
Carinos,
An Avid reader of your blogs,
Arturo
Thanks so much for this query, I just sent you a private email responding.
Was forwarded your write up on Pompiere which is delightful Would like to learn more about your picks in Rome & any other picks in Italy Thank you.
Susan Brenner
[email protected]
Thanks so much for getting in touch. All of my picks for Italy can be found in my app, Eat Italy, available on iTunes. And there are lots of suggestions here on my blog. Just head to the “Restaurant” page.
About Fettuccine al Limone, is there any cream used? It was fabulous so I would love to recreate it at home here in LA!
Yes, there is cream! I’m hoping to get the recipe in January and make a video.
Missing Pompiere after 2 years of not being in Rome, I stumble happily on your page. Thanks for the good memories
It’s still there waiting for you!
Thanks for this! Our favorite in Roma. Been there many, many happy times. In fact, that’s me with my teen-age son (now 38) in the left hand corner of the dining room picture! My husband is pouring the wine. VA
Really?? How cool.
Thank you! Our most favorite in Roma. Been there so many many happy times. In fact, that’s me in the left corner of the dining room with our teenage son (now 38). My husband is pouring the wine!
We ate there twice for lunch in March. It was the only restaurant that required a return visit. Can’t wait to visit again.