lanificio {brunch in rome}

I’ve long ago admitted to my laziness when it comes to getting out of the center of Rome. But the other day, I got a sweet email from a reader of my blog, Sarah B., asking me if I knew of any restaurants way out on the Nomentana? She was a musician, and had a ‘gig’ in that part of town (where there are plenty of night clubs) and was fearful that between rehearsals and performances she wouldn’t get a chance to make it down to the center of town.

That’s when I remembered that I’d been meaning to go to Lanificio for way too long. Which is where, it turns out, the musician was actually playing!

One of the reasons I hadn’t made it out to this restored factory is because it’s in a decidedly odd part of town that is definitely hard to get to. In other words, it means getting in the car. And the drive out the Nomentana is usually one of those curse-laden, traffic-filled rides I’d rather avoid.

But since it was one of many recent national holidays (April 25th) we decided to take advantage of the lack of traffic, and  pretend it was a day in the country, and head there for ‘brunch.’

First of all, a ‘brunch’ disclaimer. Brunch in Italian means Sunday (or in this case holiday) buffet. It does not include things like pancakes, eggs or waffles. Ever.

Also, I’ve never been a big a fan of these Italian brunches. They are usually mostly insipid salads and various other vegetables, along with some boring grain salad.

But I’d been hearing good things about Lanificio, so….I thought I’d give it a go.

And it turned out to be just like a day in the country. The restored factory used to be a wool works (lanificio) and is on the banks of the Aniene river.

The space itself is beyond perfect. Rough concrete floors, light flooding in and the entire place furnished in mismatched chairs, tables and couches. Kind of like a flea market, which I guess it is, because everything is for sale.

Although all the tables in the place were full, there was none of the waiting in line that you usually get at Italian brunches, since they had two separate buffets set up. Another nice thing is that they bring the dishes out gradually. Antipasti first, and then so on. A big platter of steaming cacio e pepe – obviously made to order – came out about 45 minutes after we had arrived. In other words, there was no tepid grain salad to be seen.

But even more than the food – which was very good, and extremely abundant for 20 Euros – it was the atmosphere that will bring me back. Kids running around, friends lazing around tables, and of course the completely tranquil vision of the river running by.

Kind of like a day in the country. But in Rome.

If you’re curious Sarah B. is playing tomorrow evening, Wednesday May 8, with her group Murder by Death. That would give you a chance to check out Lanificio for dinner. And if you do see Sarah B.,  please thank her for getting me out of my lazy bubble. 

LANIFICIO
VIA DI PIETRALATA 159/159A
+39-06-41780081