The post today is a blatant plea to make you spend money. But don’t worry. I have my reasons.
Here they are:
- You will really like what you’ll be spending your money on.
- It’s a good value
- It’s (kind of) for a good cause.
Because today’s post is about hand painted ceramics from Umbria. See. Got your attention, didn’t I? You want shiny, pretty plates, right? You need them (yes, I”m in your head and hear what you are saying to yourself).
A bit of background first. As many of you know, we have a house in Umbria, where we spend a lot of time. One of the first books I ever wrote grew out of a desire to throw light on one of the area’s richest resources: hand crafted ceramics.
Ok. You really want to know how this book, Deruta: A Tradition of Ceramics came about? The designer and producer, Melanie Doherty suggested we do a book that would allow her to come over to Italy for a project. Ceramics from Deruta seemed like a pretty good idea.
And it was, for many reasons. They’ve been making gorgeous majolica in Deruta for hundreds of years. And have pretty much been doing it the same way, with the same materials, techniques and designs for centuries. For a bit of history, see this post. You can also try to buy the book, but unfortunately it’s sadly out of print.
All was going fine in Deruta until recently, when this whole ‘globilisation’ thing started up. And the ‘financial crisis’ thing didn’t help much either. It turns out that workers in Asia can make dishes that superficially look a lot like the ones from Deruta, but at half the price. (but that’s ok, since you probably get twice the lead for free).
So, you can imagine what is happening in Deruta these days. Workshops that have been going strong for generations are closing. Young people are unwilling to learn an ancient craft that has no potential for making a living.
So I’m doing my part here folks. I am shopping. But I certainly can’t be expected to keep the town afloat on my own. You have to do your part too.
The photos you see here, from my personal and ever expanding collection, are but a smidgin of the gorgouesness available at the more than 300 workshops in Deruta.
Like any person with an addiction, I too have my trusted sources. All of the ceramics you see here come from one store: Sberna. I’ve been going here for as long as I can remember. There are lots of other stores too, that I love. But Sberna – at least for me – combines just the right balance of high quality with great prices. I mean really, at the end of the day I want to use these plates. So yes, I want to them to be pretty. But I also don’t want to have a heart attack if one breaks or chips. (see 2 above)
Sberna has become kind of a tradition in my family. When my sister Robin got married, she got a set of dishes. Ditto Jodi and Gretchen. While every trip to Deruta usually results in me bringing home a serving dish or two from Sberna, I recently went all out and bought a full service for 12. (see 3 above)
What I love about my most recent purchase is that I didn’t have to make that difficult decision of choosing one pattern over another. With this fruity design, I got to mix and match. Cherries, pears, quinces, pomegranates, blackberries and grapes ring the dinner, pasta and desert plates. And all play very nicely with the platters, bowls and coffee cups I’ve accumulated over the years.
So, do your part too. (see 3 above) If you’re in Umbria stop by. They ship. If you’re nowhere near, place an order. Here’s their website and email address. Both Anna and Franca speak English.
And while I’m a Sberna girl, there are loads of other stores in Deruta. See below for my list of favorites, as well as some trusted (i.e. purely Italian) sources in the States.
I knew I’d get you on the first two reasons for spending the money. (See 1 and 2 above) but of course it’s the good cause thing that’s the kicker. (see 3 above)
So come on, do your part. I mean really, how often does doing the right thing result in pretty dishes?
Sources in Deruta
There are over three-hundred ceramic studios in Deruta, reflecting a wide variety of styles, merchandise, and quality. A full listing of the firms in Deruta can be obtained at the tourist office in the main square. The following are my personal favorites:
Ceramiche Sberna
Via Tiberina , 146
Tel: +39 075-971-0206
Ceramiche Chiucchiù Via G.Salvemini
Tel: +39 075-971-0747
Exquisite one-of-a-kind masterpieces.
Grazia Deruta
Via Tiberina Centro 181
Tel: +39 075-971-0201
The oldest ceramics workshop in town. A wonderful place to visit, especially their workshops.
Antonio Margaritelli
Via Tiberina 214
Tel: +39 075-971-1572
No web site! He barely has a telephone. Just go! But if you can’t make it, Bellezza carries his one of a kind pieces.
Franco Mari
Via Tiberina Sud 69,
Tel: +39 075-971-1224
Beautiful and unique highly glossy finish on his modern patterns.
Sources in the USA
All of these stores have online services and ship. So you don’t actually have to go to Deruta. But don’t you want to?
Bellezza
Boston
Ceramica
Bella Italia
DC and Maryland
Biordi
San Francisco
hi ! pretty post ! that picture near the end looks like it’s cherry pie … can you please send the link to thank recipe ? thanks!
Here ya go: http://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2011/06/foraging-for-cherries-cherry-pie.html
They are gorgeous plates — and they make food look even more beautiful… the perfect gift (or accessory) for the food blogger in the family? 😉 I’m making a note of these addresses for my next trip to Umbria!
Yes, that’s my secret to great photographs: pretty props!
Please post the recipes for the pasta that looks like large Cavatelli (sp?) and the green spinach looking dumplings?
Here ya go:
Pasta with artichokes
http://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2012/04/artichokes-wild-mint-pasta.html
and
Gnudi
http://www.elizabethminchilli.com/2012/05/naked-ravioli-gnudi-di-bietola.html
I really need to get more fruit plates. My mugs simply aren’t enough.
Is that a hint?
Beautiful ceramics and such a shame the younger generation don’t wish to follow, unfortunately this is happening to many crafts/skills around the world. While in Purugia last year I brought 2 beautiful ceramic hooks from Deruta which now hang in my kitchen and remind me daily of your beautiful country. Ciao
Of course I love all my Deruta pottery. I mix and match as well. I remember after your book was published, you took me to one of the studios and they gave me a beautiful bowl just because i am your mother. I use it all the time.
Forget the ceramics. I want the food!
I heard that Grazia was closed now, no more workers, only selling out of the warehouse: have you visited lately? this made me sick when I heard it.
I have heard that Grazia has cut way way back. Very sad, and part of the whole crisis. Since Grazia had much higher over head than most, I think he’s been hardest hit.
Sigh . . . I’m dyin’ ovah heah . . . I’ve been looking for exactly these plates since my last trip to Italy but I don’t know where I can find them in Toronto! Any suggestions? Of course, this IS another reason to return to bella Italia but since we just bought a 150 year old house, our money will be otherwise occupied for a while.
You can always order directly from Sberna, or else through one of the USA sources I list below.
We picked up some plates when we were in Italy in June. And they quickly became the favoured plates to use. I just remarked over the weekend, I wish we had bought more. Now I can. Thanks Elizabeth.
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Have several platters and Deruta bowls which I use all the time for entertaining, they are gorgeous and make everything more festive. We have Biordi here so I can buy locally in SF, but it’s so much more fun to go to the source in Umbria. Thanks for the post, we all need to remember to support local artisans, or we will be left with nothing authentic.
You’re lucky to have Biordi! But having it so close by is rather dangerous…
I’m obsessed with Italian pottery and my visit to Deruta was the highlight of a past trip. I can’t help myself when I get around beautiful ceramics. I was thrilled to go back into a workshop and watch the artists at work. I need to go back and support these amazing artisans. Thank you for bringing attention to their craft.
Elizabeth! Thanks for the extra push! I am sooo ready to head up there and support the economy. Your dishes are gorgeous and inspirational, especially when covered with your terrific food!
Yes, this post was for you! Hope it encourages you to order a set.
Agree wholeheartedly! As it is, I am waiting this very moment for my “Fishes” dishes from Grazie Deruta!!! One of the funnest, most interesting excursions ever was to Grazie Deruta. Such artisans, you can’t believe what they can do! It might help also if all the Food Mavens and Masters got rid of the white plates…doesn’t the food deserve a lovely send off! – Laura B from Wilmington NC
you live in Wilmington?? So do I along with my Deruta pottery. E-mail me
I also like
Deruta Placens
via B Michelotti, 25
075.972277
and
Via Umberto I, 25075.9724027
The artists are a mother and daughter.
Good going Elizabeth! I love doing my part, wish I had a bigger house!
Beautiful – I love collecting ceramics. Are there any ceramics shops in Rome you can recommend? Unfortunately I won’t be able to make it to Deruta on my next trip. Thanks!
Buying ceramics in Rome is surprisingly hard. There is a shop off Piazza Navona, but they mostly sell things from Sicily, and are wildly expensive.
Wanted to add one thing: their is another shop in Roe on Piazza della Pietra that carries a lot of ceramics from Deruta, as well as other places in Italy.
I am interested in obtaining dishes in the pattern in your first picture. I did not see them listed on the Sberna website. thanks Gary Wolfe
Hi Gary. If you write directly to Sberna, and link to this blog post, they can send you information about this pattern (sizes, prices, etc). Their web site is not the best (remember, they are artisans!) I think the pattern is called ‘frutta’ or something similar.
I started my collection with a thrift shop purchase. Little did I know that the 4 goblets were made in Deruta and later discovered that they were priceless! That incredible $5 purchase made me a Deruta junkie from that point foreward. Several years ago, my husband and I made a trip to Deruta and had a complete dinner set for 12 made to order. They hand painted our famiglia name on the bottom so that we could pass a set of 6 to each of our daughters. It took awhile before our shipment arrived but it was well worth the wait. I am happy to say that my mother-in-law, husband and daughter have contributed to my addiction each year. Thank you for acknowledging the artisans of such a beautiful craft. They truly are works of art!
What a wonderful story! It’s fun finding vintage pieces in thrift stores and tag sales.
Wish your food could ship with it too!Just Bella!
oooohhhhh pretty plates!!!! 🙂 Being from Dutch parents I have lots of blue plates that have been hanging on the walls for years. This last time we built our house we have lots of glass for the view and not much wall space for plates (or paintings) so they are all in storage. I think I need a few pretty Umbrian ones though for serving pasta…. 🙂
OK Elizabeth, I took your advice and did some shopping in Deruta when we were staying at Laura’s rental in Collelungo last month. I did my part to keep the local economy going!! 🙂
Hi Elizabeth…late to the party…by almost a year!! LOL But I have a question and hoping you will see this…what is the pattern in the first photo on your blog? I cannot find it anywhere…any help is appreciated! Love your site!
This pattern is called Frutta, and I believe it comes in six or seven variations. That first plate is Melograno, or Pomegranate.
One year on, but have just returned from an Umbrian holiday and was delighted to find your post and so to tell you that we have contributed quite a substantial sum to the local economy. We went a bit made and bought dishes, bowls, coasters, a lamp stand and various other items. Worth every Euro and it will always remind us of what a special place Deruta is and how skilled the craftsmen and women are who make it.
Hi there, great post. I fell in love with Deruta pottery a few years ago and jumped for joy when I came across a great little store in NYC that sells Deruta ceramics. It’s called La Terrine, and their website is at http://www.laterrinedirect.com (you can order online). When I was there, they told me that the owner goes to Deruta personally once or twice a year (I forget), works with several factories there, and imports the pottery herself. They carry a lot of different designs from Deruta and they are all really nice there! I highly recommend them if you can’t get to Italy. I bought some nice Rafaelesco pieces there and intend to get more. I like knowing there is a resource here, that is helping the economy over there. Thanks for your article – I love your photos!
Thank you for writing! I just read your book. I am teaching a ceramics class in Italy in Cortona and I am finding a way to travel to Deruta. I am excited and appreciate you post! Thanks! deb
http://debspottery.com
“Antica Fornace Deruta” is a treasure trove of unexpected treasures … of art, passion, dedication and life … the intersection of so many lives and so many stories related to these masterpieces of Deruta pottery, which the family Baiano, with passion and pride holds, for all those who want to be fascinated. Find out more about the shop, the kilns, the italian pottery. We await your visit!
Recently bought a beautiful bowl in deruta with a country scene and would like the name of the design.
Hard to comment without an image! 🙂
I’m planning a trip to Deruta soon and stumbled upon your blog. So helpful but I’m hoping the shops you’ve listed will all still be there. We are stationed in Germany and will be flying into Rome and driving to that out-of-the-way town. I am planning of shipping my treasure back to Germany since it’ll be quite a bargain to buy it from the source. I’m so excited I can hardly stand it! Wish me luck!
I thimk they are all still there! Sberna definitely is.
I love the plate with the pomegranates? Which shop makes these plates? Thank you, Chella
Thanks! The entire blog post is about the place I bought them, Sberna.
I found your Deruta book used on Abebooks.com. They have several copies.
Planning a trip to Umbria this summer. Can you recommend a restaurant in Deruta for 4 adults and 5 children aged 4-12?
For some reason the sberna shopping link is not working. Can you tell me what a dinner plate in the frutta pattern might cost now? I love the pattern and am thinking of ordering ahead.
I’ll check the link on my post, thanks for pointing it out. I’m not sure of the prices these days, since it also depends a bit if you buy a full set or not. Just down the road from Deruta is Antico Forziere, which was a bit upscale and very good.
Hello. We had the pleasure of visiting Deruta about 5 years ago – my favorite town! I purchased a very intricate plate from one of the shops across from the central little church. I have been kicking myself since then for not buying complete dining room sets at that time. We are planning on returning to Deruta in 2016 to hopefully purchase from the same store we found this beautiful plate. I have googled like crazy to find this specific store or picture similar to the beautiful intricate artwork but unfortunately can’t find anything like it. I was wondering if there’s a way to send you a picture of the plate in hopes that you would have some insight. Thank you for any help you can provide.
Does the plate have any writing on the back of it?
Yes. In large writing. Dipiuto a waud “Deruta placrus” wordeuti Deruta Italia. Around the writing are ****. Please excuse the translation of the above lettering written on the back of the plate, I made have misread a few letters due to the penmanship.
I’m afraid that you got a lot of the letters wrong, so it’s kind of hard to deciper! The first words are Dipinto a mano, which means painted by hand. It’s the two words that you’ve written as ‘placrus wordeuti’ that is probably the name of the place. If you take a photo and send it to me, I can probably read it correctly.
So sorry! I was afraid that would happen! Thank you so much for your helpfulness. I can certainly take a picture and send it to you. What email address would you like me to send the picture to?
Ciao, I bought your book years ago. I have shared it with so many friends–my brother bought a copy as soon as he saw mine. I really enjoyed the stories about the different artists/studios. I visited Antonio Margaritelli years ago when I came across his shop. I hope his is still there. His dedication and passion for quality and beauty are remarkable. I bought one of his plates–it will be an heirloom. I am the author of “The Dog Who Ate the Truffle: A Memoir of Stories and Recipes from Umbria,” and sadly my book is out of print too. For sale on my website. Your book is a work of art and I am very sad it is out of print. I am happy to see you sell it. I will let people know. Suzanne
My book is available on Amazon and Ebay, but out of print too. I’m about to relaunch it as an ebook.
My wife and I and some friends visited Deruta on Saturday and enjoyed the shops you suggested,but i have 2 comments. First Franco Mari has moved his shop, it is now at 152 on Via Tiberina. Second, we couldn’t find Ceramiche Chiucchiu. They may have moved or closed.
Thanks for the feedback. I know that Mari has moved. But I think Chiucchiu is still in the same place? they may just have been closed when you passed by.
I went to Siena this summer and there was hand painted pottery very similar. Would it be genuine or does Siena have its own?
Siena definitely has its own pottery tradition. Whether or not your exact piece is genuine is hard to judge. There are, unfortunately, many cheap imports these days. 🙁
Just bought your book on Amazon. Looking forward to receiving it! Having been to Deruta back in 1998 on a cycling trip through Umbria, my love of Italian pottery began then and has grown over the years! I remember that we visited a workshop called Cama on our tour and so my collection began… Has Cama survived over the years? My favorite shop and website local to me in California is called Italian Pottery Outlet in Santa Barbara. Check out their website at https://www.italianpottery.com for Italian pottery from Deruta and other areas in Italy. Thanks for sharing passion for Deruta with us!
Sadly CAMA is no longer. The store next door, FIMA, now produces some of their best loved patterns. Thank you for buying my book!!
Thank you, Elizabeth, for writing this post about Deruta ceramics. Last year I purchased an attractive yellow and blue vase in my home town of Gatineau, Quebec, Canada. Last week I put some yellow spring daffodils in it. They were beautiful together. Today, I read “Sperna Deruta Italy” on the bottom of the vase. I wasn’t sure what that meant, but thanks to you I now know the vase is from the Sberna store in Deruta.
I’m sure it’s lovely filled with flowers!!