new ‘old’ restaurant in monti: l’asino d’oro

In theory I love trying out new restaurants. And of course I do this a lot for my work, but also for my pleasure. I say ‘in theory’ because of course I’m like everyone else I know. Those reservations you made weeks ago, to go to the newest, hottest restaurant across town seemed like a good idea at the time. But come 7:30, after a full day of work, all you really want to do is walk around the corner to your neighborhood trattoria. Not only are you known and loved, but you also know and love what will be on your plate. Am I right?

That’s why I was out-of-this-world thrilled to learn that L’Asino d’Oro has moved to Monti. In theory it’s a ‘new’ restaurant, at least for this neighborhood. But I’ve been going to Lucio Sforza’s restaurants ever since he first opened La Volpe e l’Uva in Orvieto in 1990. He opened L’Asino d’oro soon thereafter and one of our favorite trips from our house in Todi was to drive to Orvieto for lunch. I was sad when he closed shop, but encouraged that he moved to Rome. But since the restaurant was way up in Montesacro, I never made it. (Somehow a forty minute drive in the Umbrian countryside is easier than heading across town in Rome.) So when I realized that I could try a ‘new’ restaurant, that wasn’t even ‘new’ and around the corner from my house? Perfetto!

I’d been hearing rumors that L’Asino d’Oro was moving to Monti, but Sforza wasn’t answering any phone number I had. Since I knew that the space on Via Boschetto (formerly Colors, more recently Gens) was available, I figured that was where he would land. I was praying this was true, and not just a rumor. While Monti may have some good places to eat, which I know and love, it’s lacking in terms of slightly adventurous – can I say sophisticated? – dining. Which is why I was so so happy to run into Sforza last week as he was putting the final touches on the completely renovated place on Via Boschetto.

He just opened Monday, but since he’s been doing this for quite a long time, I had no ‘new restaurant’ qualms. Sforza brings his extremely professional and friendly staff with him where ever he lands.

The menu will be familiar to anyone who has followed Sforza. His meticulous attention to ingredients and his adventurous mixing of tastes and textures delivers traditionally prepared dishes that venture into completely new territory.

The menu is extremely affordable, especially for a place of this quality. The most expensive dish is only 15 euros.  I’m sorry, but I have to admit that I didn’t even look at the wine list, since I was so excited to order a beer. He carries about 30 excellent craft beers. We started off with a Cluviae from Maiella.(always fun to try something new, especially since it was so good.)

Before we even had a chance to order, a small slice of frittata arrived. Although it looked so so, the tastes blew us both away. Packed with chicory and ricotta, it was moist and almost souffle-like. A scattering of pecorino flakes and just a drizzle of bright green olive oil. This was soon followed by a plate of cinta senese prosciutto, hand cut and full of rich, creamy fat.  Both dishes combined rustic tradition with intense flavor and expert preparation, which continued through the entire meal.




Domenico ordered – at the suggestion of the waiter, Stefano – Tagliolini con Calamari e Blu di Percora. Yes, that would be squid with blue cheese. Sounds odd, but wasn’t at all. The bits of calamari were soft and tender, and bathed in the rich, creamy, earthy blu cheese.


I went for the Zuppa di Fagioli e Castagna. I’m usually not a big fan of savory dishes with chestnuts, so I wanted to see if Sforza could convert me. He did. The soup itself was full of big, pink beans and the ‘broth’ was just sweet enough with chestnuts. The Lardo topped crostino floating in the middle was flecked with candied orange, a nice touch.

The menu is divided into Fuoripasti, Primi and Secondi. The waiter explained that the Fuoripasti could be ordered either as antipasto, or – if you weren’t so hungry – as a smallish second course. Great idea! Since that portion of the menu contained so many things I wanted to try I ordered a combo plate. Baffo alla Salvia e Aceto was gently sauteed slices of guanciale, just crispy enough at the edges but still chewy in the middle, bathed in vinegar and topped with bits of fried sage. The Fegatelli alla Muffa Nobile provided me with just enough of something you just don’t find that often: pork liver. And to provide a bit of non-pork, I ordered a side of orange roasted finocchio, which was extraordinary and I will be trying to replicate at home. At Stefano’s suggestion we stayed with Birrificio di Maiella, but changed to Matthias, darker, richer and perfect.






By the way, the space is great. I’m willing to put up with crowded trattorias with bad acoustics and lighting as much as the next girl. But sometimes it is just such a total pleasure to find a restaurant like L’Asino d’Oro that actually goes out of its way to provide soft lighting, comfortable chairs and – you’re not gonna believe this – expertly chosen jazz in the background. Yes, this is Rome. Sforza has transformed the formerly dark and dreary space into light and happy dining room, replete with primary colors and wooden floors.

We didn’t have room for dessert, regrettably. But we’ll certainly be coming back, not to worry. For dinner, for sure. But also for lunch, which at 12 euros for a fixed menu will probably turn out to be one of the best and most delicious deals in town. They also have a special ‘merende’ menu from 5-7:30, featuring small plates. Pretty cool, right? And since Monti is so centrally located, no one has any excuse not to come.


L’Asino d’oro 
Via Boschetto 73
06.489.13832