I guess since I’ve been in Rome so long, there are bound to be places that I either take for granted, or forget about for a while. Norcineria Viola, in Campo dei Fiori, is one of those places.
I’ve been going there since I was 12, and used to frequent it regularly when I was going to the market in Campo dei Fiori more often. But lately, since I rarely shop at Campo, I just plain forgot about Viola.
I don’t know what drew me in the other day. Could it have been the sunlight bouncing off the hanging prosciutti? Or was it the overwhelming smell of cured pork wafting out of the doorway? That was nothing compared to the overall embrace of pure porkiness when I walked through the door. I felt like I was coming home.
Norcineria Viola has been going at it for over a century. They sell one thing, and one thing only: cured pork. But if you think that narrows the range of what’s on offer, think again. Any size, shape or variety of cured pork, and they’ve got.
Prosciutti, salami, guanciale and pancetta for sure. But about 50 kinds of salame, from all over Italy. Dozens of types of prosciutti. Big fat slabs of glistening lard. Jelly-laden pigs feet. They even have pastrami from up north. Ok, that’s beef masquerading as cured pork. But the rest of the shop is pork and pork only. A veritable shrine to pork.
Me being me, I of course bought an entire quanciale (you never know, it always comes in handy.) But I also picked up a few strands of wild boar sausages to have on hand over the holidays, and also to give as gifts. Right now the only thing I’m regretting is not having bought one of their home-made cottechini. Oh well, they are sure to have at least a couple left over next week, right? 
Norcineria Viola
Campo de’ Fiori 45
06 688 06114
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Yum. And to think it is in Campo de’ Fiori! The mecca of tourist traps! Then again the Forno is also very good.
I shall have to explore this place of wonders next time I go get my husband’s fix of maritozzi.
So when you say boar sausage to give as gifts, exactly who did you have in mind?
I love that place and I often forget about it too! But when I think of coppette I always think of them. And I forgot they have pastrami! Time for a Reuben sandwich!
Thanks for these fabulous pix of my favorite pork store in the world. You’ve managed to make me seriously “Romesick,” to quote a Canadian friend after she moved back to Canada…And buon anno!
Pork pastrami?
Am not sure how well that would fly in New York City ; )
No no David! The pastrami is definitely beef (manzo). I just meant it was the only piece of beef in the place, trying to pretend to be porkish.